Short legs!

[gwnas1]

Ok. I went with the Elite 3s after having Metzelers and it raised me up about an inch on my 07 1600 Nomad. Can anyone advise me on longer lasting tires that will lower me enough to be flat footed when stopped? I hate to say it, but I hardly rode last summer because of it. Ive debated getting progressive shocks to shaving my stock seat down.




And, NO.

[DragonLady58]

Wanna put your feet on the ground....go with 1" shorter shocks, or 1 1/2"....
then get some drop links for bottom of shocks. Then, you can trim down your seat padding if more is needed.....

[andyvh1959]

How short are you? Or better to ask how short is your inseam? I'm 5'-6" with about 30" inseam so on my 1600 Classic or my BMWs I have little challenge reaching the ground. However, I've also been a motorcycle instructor for 28+ years, so over the years I've regularly practiced a lot of techniques and exercises to improve my riding confidence.

Now all that said, I've been very comfortable handling my BMWs with only getting one foot to the ground for decades. But my BMWs weigh near 200 lbs less than my 1600 Classic. That, and floorboards, and legs/hips in more of a lounge chair seating position the heavier weight of a big cruiser does take more confidence and strong legs. However, lowering a 1600 also means the already low floorboards on a Vulcan will be that much more likely to touch down.

Another thing can be the seat shape, especially when it comes to getting your legs open enough and at an easy angle down to the ground. Perhaps not just a thinner seat, but also the shape of the seat where it provides better clearance for your thighs when your boots are down to the surface.

[gwnas1]

Thank you both for the info. I'm 5'7" with a 28" inseam.

[canuckrider]

Good advice from DragonLady.
I'm 5'6" with a 29" inseam so I can relate. When I had my '08 Nomad I was running Michelin Commander II tires but can't say that I really noticed a difference in height between the stock Bridgestone Excedras. I changed over the shocks to Progressives that were an inch shorter than stock. Those made a world of difference. I also had an Ultimate driver's seat but I don't think that it was really any lower than the stock seat.

Good luck with finding the right formula. I ride a Honda ST1300 now which poses some challenges, but as Andy stated one learns to adapt.

[andyvh1959]

I can add that taking a class like "Ride Like a Pro", Lee Parks "Total Control", the MSF ARC (Advanced Rider Course), and others will do a LOT to gain the techniques and confidence that help a rider overcome a dependence to always get both feet down flat. I've learned that visual/clutch/throttle control and confidence does a lot to overcome the lack of stature. My decades of being a MSF instructor and teaching advanced riding classes at Road America have done lots to help me with not relying on both feet to the ground on stops and slow maneuvers.

On my 1600 Classic I changed it from the Progressive shorter shocks the PO had installed to the stock height air adjustable shocks. Even with that change I still touch down a floorboard far sooner than I think is good. The Vulcans handle quite well but the cornering clearance/lean angle is not sufficient for that capability. So I plan to mod the floorboard mounts to raise them at least an inch. I also installed a Russel Day Long seat set which has significant "wings" which make me slide slightly forward at stops when my boots go to the surface. My 1600 Classic is my 1st ever big cruiser v-twin versus decades of riding much lighter/slimmer BMW flat twins, I now better understand that holding up a near 900 pound bike, especially with a passenger on the back is more certain with both feet to the ground.

[Kawi_addict]

What is your plan for raising floorboards and how do you plan to extend the shift/brake levers ? I like mods customising a bike makes it your own imo

[andyvh1959]

I'll probably just cut the floorboard mounts and splice in/weld in some metal of the right thickness and height to make the higher position work out. Since the foot brake and master cylinder on the right mounts to the floorboard mount it'll just go up with the mount. On the left I only use the toe portion of the shifter so I'm not concerned about the heel shifter. I also wear size 9.5 boots so I can probably get by just positioning the shift lever CW on the spline to get it higher. But if I have to, I'll cut and weld a shift lever as needed to get the right position over the LH floorboard without changing the shift linkage at all. One thing I might also try is to add a support bushing in the LH crankcase cover to better support the shifter rod. I don't like a sloppy shifter setup. My 2007 BMW R1200RT is a good example of a secure shifter. But the Classic has way too much slop in the system for my taste.

[gwnas1]

Did you have any problems dragging the floorboards or pipes after dropping it an inch?

[mick56]

"On the left I only use the toe portion of the shifter so I'm not concerned about the heel shifter"

It is a 2 part thing, so just take the heel part off. I did away with mine, because i think it's too easy to abuse the gearbox with it.

[andyvh1959]

I agree on that. I am so used to the toe shifting on my BMWs, that when I get on my 1600 Classic I still prefer to use the toe shifter. But, I also suspect the PO used the heel shifter to bang it hard in 2nd and 3rd. The bike as I bought it had all the typical aftermarket go fast updates; Baron intake, Power Commander, Vance & Hanes (loud ass) pipes, all the solenoid crap gone, and all the show stuff (neon lights, chrome add-on stuff), and stickers from Sturgis. Wouldn't be surprised the PO was hitting it hard to show the Harley riders its Metric ass. And in the process totally buggered 2nd gear.

[mick56]

I was looking for some parts, and watched a video of a bike running, from "Fallen cycles" in Florida. It was on a stand, and the mechanic was stamping on the heel shifter, like it was normal. I certainly wouldn't have bought that engine.

[andyvh1959]

Right. Whether you use a toe or heel shifter, the best technique is to take up the shift linkage slack with a bit a preload at your boot toe or heel, then when ready to make the shift maybe a 1/4 travel of the clutch lever (at most) with a quick throttle chop and the next gear clicks in solid. What really helps with big twins, both v-twins and flat twins, is maintaining as much engine speed/momentum as possible, as little RPM decrease as possible between shifts. Riders that allow slow, sloppy shifts with a lot of rpm drop are actually presenting more potential for damage to the tranny than they realize. Also, again for big twins, its better to get the revs up, like in the 3000+ rpm range. On my BMW flat twins they shift better, respond better, if I make my shifts at 4500 rpm. Again, momentum helps. At higher revs the bike is already got more speed so the next gear clicks in smoother and the bike accelerates better.

Oh, back to the original posters comment about "shorter" tires; its not the brand or model of tire that was mounted. Its all about the size of the tire the dealer mounted. Perhaps the shop had a tire available that was a taller aspect ratio that what was on the bike previously? Or, the tire that was on the bike was a lower aspect ratio than stock? For example, for the rear on the Nomad or Classic a 170 or 180 width is about stock for the 16" diameter tire. But it could be a 50 ratio, 55, 60, 65, 70 or even 80 ratio sidewall height tire. For say a 170mm width tire, a 50 ratio tire has a 3.35" sidewall. 55 ratio is 3.68". 60 ratio is 4.02". 65 ratio is 4.35". 70 ratio is 4.68". 80 ratio is 5.35".

So if your worn rear tire was a 55 ratio and the dealer installed a 70 ratio tire, that would raise the bike by an inch right there. Another indication is if your bike is turning slightly lower highway rpm in 5th gear than it was on the worn rear tire. Or perhaps now you perceive a different engine speed on the highway because the speedo is actually closer to real speed than it was before. A larger diameter rear tire would cause the speedo to read lower real speed, and you might actually be at slightly lower engine speed at the corrected speed indicated on the speedo. But again, rather than feel uncertain about the bike, or change the tires, and ride less because of it, get some professional training and resultant confidence in yourself and the bike. If you feel professional training is too expensive, you'll easily spend well over $300 in changing out the tire set for a set of lower tires. That is about the same price of many, many excellent rider training classes. You'll actually get a LOT MORE VALUE for the buck if you spend the money on yourself rather than spending it on tires.

[mick56]

Pretty sure they came with 150/80/16's. I changed mine to 130/90/16's. Much better handling for English country roads.

[andyvh1959]

As far as dragging floorboards, on my Classic. I bought it used, and the PO had installed Progressive shocks that were an inch shorter than stock. I touched the floorboards down WAY too easy, even on inner city 90 degree turns. I am so used to the ample and easy leaning of my BMWs that I applied similar techniques to the Classic because it is actually solid and nimble for a big cruiser. But WAY to limited on lean angle, even after I installed a set of stock length shocks. Roundabouts are fun, easy to handle at 20 to 30 mph, but again I am touching/grinding the floorboards even with the longer shocks. I also teach advanced riding techniques on the small track at Road America, and I want to use my Classic for those teaching opportunities (in addition to my BMWs), to show the Harley and Metric cruiser riders that the bike is not the limiting factor to really enjoy the curvy/twisty roads like in the Smokies and Tail of the Dragon.

I'm not trying to make corners on my Classic like on my BMWs, and not trying to race around public streets and corners. But I do not like being so limited in lean angle in case I need it some time. So I am raising the floorboards 1", maybe 1.5". And I have a set of nice Progressive shocks for sale, for far less than new.