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Old 07-22-2021, 08:19 AM   #16
Jllm02199   Jllm02199 is offline
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Well I'd definitely replace it. May not be the only problem.
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Old 08-08-2021, 02:00 PM   #17
DragonLady58   DragonLady58 is offline
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Usually, the stators and regulators start acting up when those plugs under the left hand side cover get oily, dirty, corroded....usually melt somewhat....
I always hard wire those connections, keeps the stators and reg's happy....
Yep, fuse box is toast....needs replacing....
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Old 08-13-2021, 10:17 PM   #18
BeardedGrappler504   BeardedGrappler504 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DragonLady58 View Post
Usually, the stators and regulators start acting up when those plugs under the left hand side cover get oily, dirty, corroded....usually melt somewhat....
I always hard wire those connections, keeps the stators and reg's happy....
Yep, fuse box is toast....needs replacing....

replaced the fuse panel. still having the same problem. the battery voltage never goes above 12.3V.

both Stator vAC is good per the manual
diodes in the rectifiers are good

could the ECU be bad? and if it is, would one from a mean streak or nomad work on the Classic model? I know they look the same, but wasnt sure if they were compatible since they all have different part #s
 
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Old 08-13-2021, 10:46 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by BeardedGrappler504 View Post
replaced the fuse panel. still having the same problem. the battery voltage never goes above 12.3V.

both Stator vAC is good per the manual
diodes in the rectifiers are good

could the ECU be bad? and if it is, would one from a mean streak or nomad work on the Classic model? I know they look the same, but wasnt sure if they were compatible since they all have different part #s
From my research, the likelihood of the ECU going bad is slim. I thought mine went bad after running the diagnostics in the service manual it was showing that the signal from ECU to coils was low. I ended up disconnecting the ECU for a few hours, cleaning all the pins and ensuring a good connection was being made. After being disconnected a couple hours, I put the ECU back in, reconnected everything else and problem resolved. May be worth a shot and resetting it and making sure the connections are clean and solid.
 
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Old 08-16-2021, 05:06 PM   #20
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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All I can say is yowsa, those results show you have to be careful jumping a motorcycle from another (larger) vehicle. The only safe way is to make sure the vehicle providing the jump is not running. Or perhaps, connect the jumpers to the motorcycle battery and just let it sit for about 1/2 hour, then try to start it without the jumper cables attached.

Since it is not showing 13.4+ volts at idle, and up to 14.7volts at road speed (3000 rpm) usually indicates the voltage regulator is shot.
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Old 08-16-2021, 05:25 PM   #21
BeardedGrappler504   BeardedGrappler504 is offline
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Originally Posted by andyvh1959 View Post
All I can say is yowsa, those results show you have to be careful jumping a motorcycle from another (larger) vehicle. The only safe way is to make sure the vehicle providing the jump is not running. Or perhaps, connect the jumpers to the motorcycle battery and just let it sit for about 1/2 hour, then try to start it without the jumper cables attached.

Since it is not showing 13.4+ volts at idle, and up to 14.7volts at road speed (3000 rpm) usually indicates the voltage regulator is shot.

We thought that too. I have a copy of the Service Manual. We tested both rectifiers, one was bad. I've since replaced both with new ones. Still shows the same voltage when idle/3k RPM.
 
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Old 02-08-2022, 09:55 PM   #22
BeardedGrappler504   BeardedGrappler504 is offline
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Changed the wiring harness out. That fixed the speedometer jiggle, and the battery now reads 14.5ish V when running, and 12.5 when bike is off.


 
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Old 02-10-2022, 07:15 PM   #23
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Glad it is solved!
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Old 03-20-2022, 07:22 PM   #24
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I only get on here a few times a year now, so just seeing this.

Glad you got it fixed, but sorry to hear it took replacing the wiring harness. See the thread below. Not sure it is the same problem. Only one other person besides me seems to have seen it. But it definitely was a ridiculous wiring design deep inside the wiring harness.

http://www.vulcanbagger.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=49990
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Old 03-21-2022, 12:34 AM   #25
andyvh1959   andyvh1959 is offline
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Just the fact that replacing the wiring harness fixed the issue, indicates that jump starting a bike from another larger vehicle can be iffy at times. Like has been said here and other forums, best to jump with a similar sized battery and not from a running vehicle.

Way back in the early 80's I jump started my CB750 from my running Toyota, and like you I ended up replacing the wiring harness to get the bike back to normal.
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