Cam chain tensioner extenders

[BigRiig]

So my bike has around 70k on it and the previous owner installed the tensioner extenders around 20k. No issues with the bike until this time last year when I spotted a large oil leak near the front spark plug tube. Long story short, the timing chain had rubbed clean through the tube and caused oil to leak down the weep hole on the front of the motor. I checked the rear tube and barely any wear on it. I am thinking that the front tensioner extender may have fallen off. I have had the side cover off and there is no access to the timing chain so if it did fall off I am guessing I would have to crack the motor apart to find it. I plan to take the tensioner out to see if it is still on there but before I do, 2 questions:

1. Once adding the extenders, does anyone else see the chains still rubbing through the tubes and
2. If the extender did fall off and there is no way to get it out, is there any risk in just leaving it as long as I am not seeing metal shavings in the oil?

[BigRiig]

Also found these on Ebay as an alternative. https://www.ebay.com/itm/401431028283#rwid

[mick56]

Originally Posted by BigRiig

So my bike has around 70k on it and the previous owner installed the tensioner extenders around 20k. No issues with the bike until this time last year when I spotted a large oil leak near the front spark plug tube. Long story short, the timing chain had rubbed clean through the tube and caused oil to leak down the weep hole on the front of the motor. I checked the rear tube and barely any wear on it. I am thinking that the front tensioner extender may have fallen off. I have had the side cover off and there is no access to the timing chain so if it did fall off I am guessing I would have to crack the motor apart to find it. I plan to take the tensioner out to see if it is still on there but before I do, 2 questions:

1. Once adding the extenders, does anyone else see the chains still rubbing through the tubes and
2. If the extender did fall off and there is no way to get it out, is there any risk in just leaving it as long as I am not seeing metal shavings in the oil?

If it's fallen off, i would fit a magnetic sump drain plug, and check the oil screen on the left side casing for debris.

[BigRiig]

Update: I removed the tensioner and the culprit was a bent spring in the tensioner which was causing it to not extend. I straightened it back out and it seems to be working better. Time will tell if it still rubs through the spark plug tube.

[amamecman]

I put the extenders in my 1600 Nomad at 40k miles, that got me to 100k when the chains had stretched enough that they rubbed through the tubes again. Replaced the chains and started over again. Sold the bike at 140k miles, the tensioners were at about 50% travel again. I would have probably needed chains again at 200k miles.

[redjay]

Originally Posted by amamecman

I put the extenders in my 1600 Nomad at 40k miles, that got me to 100k when the chains had stretched enough that they rubbed through the tubes again. Replaced the chains and started over again. Sold the bike at 140k miles, the tensioners were at about 50% travel again. I would have probably needed chains again at 200k miles.

Were the sprockets replaced as well ?

[amamecman]

Didn't on the first chain replacement, planned to on the second change but sold the bike before it got to that mileage.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by redjay

Were the sprockets replaced as well ?

I should have replaced mine, because the teeth were very short, and i thought they were not going far into the chain. Not sure how much longer new ones would have been.

[BigRiig]

From what I have seen you have to pull the heads off to get the chains out? Is this a DIY project or better suited for a mechanic and if so, how much do they charge?

[mick56]

Originally Posted by BigRiig

From what I have seen you have to pull the heads off to get the chains out? Is this a DIY project or better suited for a mechanic and if so, how much do they charge?

It's not such a bad job really. The heads stay on, the cam covers come off. Just break the old chain and wire the new one to the end of it, Then turn the engine over with a spanner on the flywheel bolt. Feed the new chain down as it gets pulled, and when it comes around on the end of the old one, join the 2 ends up again. Just make sure you have the timing marks on the cams lined up. It is easier if you have someone to hold the old chain, to stop it dropping down in the engine, while you join the new one to it. I did mine in about half a day, start to finish. And most of that was getting the engine out, and back in. Lining the driveshaft splines up, can be a bastard. Because the engine was on a trolly jack, and has to go in from the right side, and lifted a bit, to join it up. It is definitely a 2-3 handed job, in your garage. A workshop, would have better equipment, but still probably take as long, or longer, to do the job. So you are looking at about 3-500 dollars for gaskets and chains. + labour. Get some quotes from dealers. If you can find one willing to even do the job. Good luck.

[amamecman]

I left the chains intact, pulled the side cases off of the engine and put the chains on in one piece. The job takes some mechanical ability, its much easier with a service manual. Putting the engine back in the frame is a two person job. I used a floor jack to balance the engine on while installing. I had the engine out three times while I had the bike, got pretty good at swapping it in and out...bevel gear failed at 45k, cam chains at 100k, and burned an exhaust valve at 130k.

[mick56]

Originally Posted by amamecman

I left the chains intact, pulled the side cases off of the engine and put the chains on in one piece. The job takes some mechanical ability, its much easier with a service manual. Putting the engine back in the frame is a two person job. I used a floor jack to balance the engine on while installing. I had the engine out three times while I had the bike, got pretty good at swapping it in and out...bevel gear failed at 45k, cam chains at 100k, and burned an exhaust valve at 130k.

What side casings ? There are none on a 1500. You would have to split the crank to get at the chains from the bottom. https://www.kawasakioriginalparts.co...-G2&country=GB



https://www.kawasakioriginalparts.co...-G2&country=GB

[amamecman]

On the 1600 you remove the clutch cover on the right and the stator cover and stators on the left to access the end of the crankshaft where the lower timing chain drive gear is. Not all that hard, just need more gaskets.