Is there a way to test if my clutch springs nbeed to be changed?

[sufguts]

My shifting is "crunchy" lately, not the typical clunk, and not really grinding or anything but sort of somewhere in between, hard to explain.



Oil change 1800km ago, using Rotella T5 Semi-synthetic (I think, it might be T6 - need to confirm this - usually I use the T4)



Clutch fluid flushed and bled a couple weeks ago


I'm thinking maybe the springs are the next thing to check?

[sufguts]

Edit: Yeah it's T5 Semi-Synthetic which doesnt have the JASO/M2 rating. That's probably my problem isn't it? Question still stands about checking the springs though

[DragonLady58]

Have you ever replaced your clutch spring? Have you ever replaced your clutch disc's? What bike you have? Mileage? Year?
Yes you can check your clutch spring....I've got the tool in my box....but I can tell you with certainty that after a X amount of miles, a X amount of years, a X amount of clutch abuses, and heat cycles, they get tired....
Did you replace the fluid in your clutch system? Was it fine before? Then, I would say there may be a small amount of air in your clutch system....
If this has popped up while riding the bike and your just freshening up the fluids....and theres been no screwing with the clutch system, then yes....I'd replace the clutch spring, along with the fiber disc's, since your in there, gasket and all....
stock replacement spring has been updated....its equiv. to the meanstreak spring. If you want more clutch pressure, go with the Barnett spring. But be forewarned, the barnett is not as light as the stock spring, but neither is the Meanstreak spring....its slightly heavier at the clutch lever....
DO NOT I REPEAT, DO NOT RUN ANY OIL WITH FRICTION MODIFIERS!!!!! Usually, the bottle has the motorcycle endorsement on it. IF IT DOES NOT< DO NOT USE IT!
Friction modifiers like in some synth. oils is great for bearings, gears, not so much for seals,and clutch disc's that use friction to operate....


IF you wanna run synth oil in your bike, run a synth blend with a bike endorsement....if no endorsement don't use it....

[andyvh1959]

Another thing about shifting a big v-twin, is engine momentum. The best technique for big v-twins is to get the rpm up and preload the shifter to take up any slack/play in the system. Then when ready to shift, barely chop the throttle, with minimal clutch action (like about 1/4 travel of the clutch lever after taking up free play) and press or lift the shift lever. Click, next gear. And minimal engine rpm drop during the shift. The more you keep the engine spinning the better the shift. When you get lazy about shifting you get lazy shifting action from the tranny.

[MAS Tequila]

Get going about 40 mph and put it in top gear.

Pull on the throttle, does it slip?

Slip equals new spring needed.

[sufguts]

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

Have you ever replaced your clutch spring? Have you ever replaced your clutch disc's? What bike you have? Mileage? Year?

Its a 2003 Nomad 1500 with about 40,000kms. I've had it for about 4 years now and never changed any clutch stuff and P.O. didn't have any service records, so unfortunately no idea what's been done on it

Did you replace the fluid in your clutch system? Was it fine before? Then, I would say there may be a small amount of air in your clutch system....
If this has popped up while riding the bike and your just freshening up the fluids....and theres been no screwing with the clutch system, then yes....I'd replace the clutch spring, along with the fiber disc's, since your in there, gasket and all....

It was clunky before I did the fluid flush, that's why I tried it. I drained, replaced with DOT 4 and bled with a vaccum bleeder

IF you wanna run synth oil in your bike, run a synth blend with a bike endorsement....if no endorsement don't use it....

I think I'm going to start with going back to T4 dino oil, it seems to run best before I tried any Semi-Synthetic stuff. Then if that doesn't help I'll look into servicing the clutch itself

Originally Posted by andyvh1959

The best technique for big v-twins is to get the rpm up and preload the shifter to take up any slack/play in the system. Then when ready to shift, barely chop the throttle, with minimal clutch action (like about 1/4 travel of the clutch lever after taking up free play) and press or lift the shift lever. Click, next gear. And minimal engine rpm drop during the shift. The more you keep the engine spinning the better the shift. When you get lazy about shifting you get lazy shifting action from the tranny.

Interesting. I'm gonna try this out, I always assumed full clutch lever and drop off the RPM's or you're gonna damage it

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

Get going about 40 mph and put it in top gear.

Pull on the throttle, does it slip?

Slip equals new spring needed.

I will try this, thanks

[andyvh1959]

I've been riding BMW flat twins for 30+ years, and my 76 or my 2007 BMW shifts best when I follow this technique. When I got my 1600 Classic, I tried the same technique, smooth quick shifting results and better acceleration. In a way, its a form of speed shifting. But once you get used to it the results are worth it.

Your comment says it "full clutch lever and drop off the rpms" is what a lot of big twin riders assume. Yet, all an engine needs is a brief power pause (brief throttle chop and very little clutch action) to make a smooth quick shift. In fact, near any motorcycle can be upshifted with NO clutch action at all using this technique. Its a bit more touchy on a shaft drive bike, a chain drive bike is more forgiving. But it does make for quicker smoother shifts.

Big thing is minimal engine momentum change. Meaning, minimal engine rpm drop, especially on any big bore twin with a heavy flywheel (which is near any big v-twin) results in smoother shifting. On my 1600 Classic I took off the heel shifter as I prefer the control of a toe shifter.

I agree on the "slip" tests listed above by MAS and others. That's the easiest way to check if the clutch springs (but more likely the friction plates) need attention.

[sufguts]

It was def. the oil. Changed that out for the T4 and with the new shifting method above its shifting as smooth as butter now.


Also did the slip test above as well, got it up to 65km/h (roughly 40mph) then shifted up to 5th and laid on the throttle and it didn't slip out of gear or anything so I guess that's all good too


Thanks for all the help

[mick56]

Originally Posted by sufguts

Edit: Yeah it's T5 Semi-Synthetic which doesnt have the JASO/M2 rating. That's probably my problem isn't it? Question still stands about checking the springs though

If it does not have the jaso MA2 rating, the clutch will slip badly. I know this from experience. Your problem is the opposite, and back bleeding the clutch, is the probable cure. Take the top off of the reservoir, and pump fluid up from the clutch cylinder nipple, with an old pump oil can, and hose. Like this.Same method for brakes. Never fails. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295131720...Bk9SR_STs7HVYA