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04-14-2013, 09:23 PM | #1 |
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Location: SE IL
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Spotlight bug
While riding this morning in traffic noticed only 2 lights were reflecting off of rear of car in front of me. When stopped for breakfast discovered left spot was out. Rode rest of morning and stopped at Autozone...bought new 55W bulb. Put bulb in all seemed good. During afternoon ride the guy in front of me told me all lights were out? Put in new fuse....all worked for few sec and then blew again. Messed around tonite and killed all remaining fuses. All seems good without new bulb burning? Right bulb 55W....on relay. Bulb bad?
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04-14-2013, 09:26 PM | #2 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
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What amp fuse are you using? it may be too weak for the two 55W lamps. Or do you have other stuff wired into the same circuit as well. Those lamps should have their own circuit and fuse with a relay.
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04-14-2013, 09:52 PM | #3 |
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They are wired into the headlight circuit which is on a 10A fuse. Bought it this way 2 years ago and have had no problems. Dont doubt it could be done a different way.....just seems odd that everything seemed fine till the old bulb burned out and a new one was put in?
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04-14-2013, 10:18 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
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That is too much draw for a 10 amp fuse, two 55W lamps plus a headlight is far overloaded.
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04-14-2013, 10:38 PM | #5 |
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You need to wire it correctly. Just because it has worked that way in the past doesn't mean it was done right. You don't want to fry your ignition switch contacts or have the lights go out while riding at night.
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04-14-2013, 10:38 PM | #6 |
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Cant argue that. Figured it was a load issue on the 10A fuse. Just seemed if issue it wouldve happened earlier?
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04-14-2013, 10:44 PM | #7 |
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Watts divided by voltage equals min fuse size this does not include in rush on start up or high beam inrush so even this calc is ? Prbly add at least 25 percent for safety and check all circuitry must've able to handle the fuse amp. Wire ,relay ,switches ,if in the circuit line line. 2x55equals. 110divide by voltage equals a little less than. 10. So that explains the fuse issue. Of coarse you prbly put out14 bolts while running. But when at idle a little less. On tarnished connection or frayed wire poof no lights. Do not just put in a larger fuse unless you enjoy replacing melted wires and smoked harness's
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04-14-2013, 11:00 PM | #8 |
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The math makes sense. The spots are wired into lowbeam only. How many watts would the lowbeam be rated at? Seems like have been on the edge from beginning without realizing it.
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04-14-2013, 11:07 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada
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The low beam is about 55 or 60 watts,so in addition to your driving lamps you were a lot overloaded on that circuit.
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04-15-2013, 02:51 AM | #10 |
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Is it possible the old light was less wattage? I have the Kawasaki F+S light bar and my lights are only 30w.
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04-15-2013, 07:34 AM | #11 |
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ding-ding! I think we have a winner! This would explain the sudden problem, and the rest of this thread would explain the reason to re-wire the lights correctly.
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04-15-2013, 08:26 AM | #12 |
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Thanks for help. Wish I had checked old bulb before giving to guy at parts store. Will get relay and work on wiring up correctly.
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04-15-2013, 11:16 AM | #13 |
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When you do, install a ground wire from the headlight bucket back to the frame neck area. That keeps you from grounding circuits thru the neck bearings.
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04-15-2013, 01:14 PM | #14 |
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Location: Langley B.C.
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I just installed my spots, and wired them direct to the battery, with relay in the headlight bucket, and a switch and fuse in the right side cover. No other switches to worry about, separate grounding. So far, so good . Spots were 35W, with a 10A fuse.
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04-15-2013, 01:34 PM | #15 |
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So do the 55w bulbs make that much difference?
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