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Old 05-02-2013, 10:09 PM   #1
sacarriker   sacarriker is offline
 
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Water pump bearing.

Had to replace the bearing in the water pump on the 2004 1500 classic. 7500 miles on the bike. Water got in behind the seal and rusted the bearing and it was making a whining sound. $285.00 at the dealer. Anyone ever had this problem?
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Old 05-03-2013, 12:46 PM   #2
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My guess is the age of the coolant and the lack of use both contributed to the premature bearing failure. The good news is any other issues should have surfaced by now and the bearing is a minor deal.

This issue also reminds me to change coolant on my 2006. :)

You might want to read this thread on another forum about the pump. BTW, CaddmannQ use to be a regular on this forum and is very knowledgeable on Vulcans.

http://hooligancruisers.proboards.co...ay&thread=3836
 
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Old 05-03-2013, 06:05 PM   #3
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I just did mine recently and my understanding is for that price you are getting a good deal since I think dealerships charge about $1000. Why, because most take the engine out and split it to get the engine out. When I did mine, parts I think cost me around $50 and I did the labour.Did not take the motor out...followed CaddmannQ's steps above.

The rason I did mine was because I had antifreeze dripping from the drip hose. It would be interesting to know what procedure they used to replace your bearing for that price!
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Old 05-03-2013, 09:23 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasta View Post
I just did mine recently and my understanding is for that price you are getting a good deal since I think dealerships charge about $1000. Why, because most take the engine out and split it to get the engine out. When I did mine, parts I think cost me around $50 and I did the labour.Did not take the motor out...followed CaddmannQ's steps above.

The rason I did mine was because I had antifreeze dripping from the drip hose. It would be interesting to know what procedure they used to replace your bearing for that price!
My dealer knew how to do it without splitting the case. They had a trick to taking out the race without driving it from the back.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sacarriker View Post
My dealer knew how to do it without splitting the case. They had a trick to taking out the race without driving it from the back.
Good deal! That's why the price was not bad at all. Did you have them change the antifreez as well since they were already part way there?
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Old 10-11-2020, 05:50 PM   #6
burly   burly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billmac View Post
My guess is the age of the coolant and the lack of use both contributed to the premature bearing failure. The good news is any other issues should have surfaced by now and the bearing is a minor deal.

This issue also reminds me to change coolant on my 2006. :)

You might want to read this thread on another forum about the pump. BTW, CaddmannQ use to be a regular on this forum and is very knowledgeable on Vulcans.

http://hooligancruisers.proboards.co...ay&thread=3836
Does anyone know how to get at CaddmannQ‘s thread? The link above no longer works.
 
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Old 10-11-2020, 07:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasta View Post
I just did mine recently and my understanding is for that price you are getting a good deal since I think dealerships charge about $1000. Why, because most take the engine out and split it to get the engine out. When I did mine, parts I think cost me around $50 and I did the labour.Did not take the motor out...followed CaddmannQ's steps above.

The rason I did mine was because I had antifreeze dripping from the drip hose. It would be interesting to know what procedure they used to replace your bearing for that price!
what he said....
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Old 10-11-2020, 09:38 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by burly View Post
Does anyone know how to get at CaddmannQ‘s thread? The link above no longer works.
I’m looking for CaddmannQ‘s thread on the water pump. The link to the thread above doesn’t work. I would like to know how to replace the bearing without splitting the transmission.
 
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Old 10-12-2020, 03:06 AM   #9
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You've tried to breathe life back into a 7 year old thread... so don't be surprised if it takes time to wake up, and you may not get the answers you're looking for.

billmac had a battle with leukemia around a year ago, and listed his Nomad for sale at that time on Craigslist. He's not been back here since that time.
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Old 10-12-2020, 02:57 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peg View Post
You've tried to breathe life back into a 7 year old thread... so don't be surprised if it takes time to wake up, and you may not get the answers you're looking for.

billmac had a battle with leukemia around a year ago, and listed his Nomad for sale at that time on Craigslist. He's not been back here since that time.
I’m very sorry to hear about billmac. I’ll fire a new thread up and see what happens. Thanks!
 
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Old 10-13-2020, 06:08 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I’m very sorry to hear about billmac. I’ll fire a new thread up and see what happens. Thanks!
Well, since you have already posted here, Heres what I know....
OK, to avoid pulling your engine, and all that, the bearing is in a hole, with a shaft. Can't use a internal bearing or bushing puller, soooo heres how you remove it.
Get a piece of steel, 3/16 or so, plasma cut a washer thats just a touch smaller on the od, and just a touch bigger on the id on the bearing.
in 3 or 4 places, evenly spaced around the outside, you want to drill a 1/8 or 3/16 hole so that you have your holes 1/16 from the od of the bearing and the hole.
What you want to do then is weld a couple of 1/4-20 nuts, grade 5 or better, opposite each other, to this thick 'washer', to attach a slide hammer.
NOW, the object of the game is to place 'washer' over bearing, try and get the shield off the bearing if theres a rubber sear on it, don't think it does.
ANYWAY, get your MIG welder, you wanna plug weld thru the 1/8 or 3/16s holes onto that outter bearing race. You want a good tack....not a weld.
After you tack that washer to the outter race, it will shrink slightly, attach your small slide hammer, a couple of taps and its out.
Yes, there is some fab'ing of the washer, you'll need access to a mig, etc. But its quicker and alot less expensive than pulling the engine....
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2003 Street Glide (sold)
1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold)
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Old 10-14-2020, 12:10 PM   #12
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Thanks! Much appreciated. Love this forum.
 
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Old 10-14-2020, 09:33 PM   #13
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I have a copy of the process but need to find it, take pictures and post it on here. It might be a few days before I get to it.
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Old 10-16-2020, 11:53 AM   #14
burly   burly is offline
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I have a copy of the process but need to find it, take pictures and post it on here. It might be a few days before I get to it.
That would be great...thanks!
 
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Old 10-18-2020, 12:33 PM   #15
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Here you go

Here is the first parts of the instructions
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20201018_110411.jpg (95.3 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg 20201018_110339.jpg (95.6 KB, 28 views)
File Type: jpg 20201018_110301.jpg (91.8 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg 20201018_110238.jpg (90.7 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg 20201018_110514.jpg (90.1 KB, 25 views)
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2012 NCR Rally Savanna. IL.
2013 National Rally Estes Park, CO
2014 NC/SC Rally in the Ozarks, Mountain View AR
2014 NE US/Eastern Canada Rally,Lincoln NH
2015 VBA/VRA Eureka Springs AR
2015 Antlers Rally, Antlers OK.
2016 SCR Rally Salem MO.
2016 NCR Rally Hillsboro WI
2017 Eureka Springs AR
2017 National Rally Lake George NY
2004 Blue and Silver 1500 Nomad(RIP 9-26-19)
2000 Red and Silver 1500 Nomad
2012 Pearl White 1700 Voyager

Last edited by Rasta; 10-18-2020 at 01:02 PM.
 
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