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Old 07-21-2013, 08:02 PM   #1
Tazman   Tazman is offline
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Looking for intake noise help on 08 Nomad

I recently bought an 08 Nomad. It has a K&N air filter on the right side & a stock paper filter on the left. The bike makes weird noise that sounds sort of like knocking. The noise is coming out of 2 hoses that are in the left side air box. When I put my fingers over the 2 hoses the noise stops, & the idle slows a bit. I am trying to what they are for, I think they were added by the PO. I tried to look up the online service manual on this site, but it doesn't work.

What are the 2 things that the hoses are attached to on the right side? Are they normally connected to something?

Been riding 45 years, but this is my first Kawasaki & first FI bike.

Thanks for any help, Bill





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Old 07-21-2013, 08:28 PM   #2
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This is what the PO has done http://www.gadgetjq.com/ba_idlesolenoidmuffler.htm
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:31 PM   #3
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The hoses were put there by the previous owner to quiet the noise from the idle air solenoids on the right side. If you remove those hoses, the noise from the intake on the right side intake will make you think your engine is gonna blow. I did the same thing for about a year and a half before removing the solenoids completely. I will see how it runs this winter without them, as it gets cold here and I ride pretty much all year long. Gadjets site explains this pretty well, and if you haven't checked out the site, you should. It addresses a lot of things that you will find helpful to you.
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:41 PM   #4
Tazman   Tazman is offline
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Thanks Krash & yoda! If those solenoids are removed does the enriching knob still work?

Any idea if I could just put a plug over the solenoid fitting?
 
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:47 PM   #5
cactusjack   cactusjack is offline
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You wouldn't put a plug over the fitting, you would plug the hoses voing to the solenoids. Better yet, remove the solenoids altogether, tape up the electrical plugs so they can't short to anythng and remove the hoses where they come through the backing plare and then cap off those tubes.
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Old 07-21-2013, 10:53 PM   #6
macmac   macmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tazman View Post
Thanks Krash & yoda! If those solenoids are removed does the enriching knob still work?

Any idea if I could just put a plug over the solenoid fitting?
There is no such thing as an enriching knob, which i assume you are calling the black knob on the right lower side. That knob it a throttle plate stop knob that allows you to open or close the T Plate some and so doe the so called choke on the other side. Ni injection system has a choke ever. Both of these just open the TP more or less.

Most of us with TFI BAK, and after market exhaust have removed the ISC's and boxed them for a rainy day. Just pull them off and tape up the wires is a way that is secure and does not allow the wore terminals to ever come in contact. Then zip tie them to the plastic loops on the oem backing plate.

Cap off to be sealed, the 2 steel lines the oem hoses go to. End of story.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:27 AM   #7
Tazman   Tazman is offline
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Thanks Macmac, I was referring to the black pull knob on the lower left side. I do know that FI has no choke, thats why I called it an enriching knob. I did not know it just opened the TP more. Good to know.

I appreciate the help!

Bill
 
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:59 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tazman View Post
Thanks Macmac, I was referring to the black pull knob on the lower left side. I do know that FI has no choke, thats why I called it an enriching knob. I did not know it just opened the TP more. Good to know.

I appreciate the help!

Bill
Make that mac please or Bill. There is another Mac and another Bill Mac here too. I just doubled it up..

Depending on what you want like i said the ISC 's can go away. Mine sure are and have been sine about the first week I bought the 1600. I had a 1500 before it that was stolen.

IMO the very best set up is after market exhaust a BAK and a TFI.

Most any BAK (big air kit) will have the ISC's gone..... The stock intake set up is a nightmare of twists and bends, solid walls and it evens warms air, which is the last thing any engine wants unless it is just being started at well below 0 degrees F.

Assorted other: It is wiser to remove the reed valve bodies if you alter breathing, and install 'Coasters' which are just simple flat plates to replace the reed valve bodies.

With that the vac pod that runs them I coined medusa's head because that is what it reminded me of. This is a vac pod and a mess of tubing that fed the reed valves.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:54 AM   #9
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Thanks Mac! I really do appreciate the info. What the heck are the reed valves & where are they? I have had them on 2 stroke dirt bikes in the past. Not heard of them on a 4 stroke.

Seems like way to much thinking on Kawasaki's part went into the intake on these things.
 
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:56 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tazman View Post
Thanks Mac! I really do appreciate the info. What the heck are the reed valves & where are they? I have had them on 2 stroke dirt bikes in the past. Not heard of them on a 4 stroke.

Seems like way to much thinking on Kawasaki's part went into the intake on these things.
You have the Environmental Protection Agency to thank for that.
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Old 07-22-2013, 03:20 PM   #11
macmac   macmac is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tazman View Post
Thanks Mac! I really do appreciate the info. What the heck are the reed valves & where are they? I have had them on 2 stroke dirt bikes in the past. Not heard of them on a 4 stroke.

Seems like way to much thinking on Kawasaki's part went into the intake on these things.
These reed valves are plastic and encased in the box at right rear cly and left front cly in black boxes. They breath air into the exhaust just inside the heads at the exhaust ports.

On the stock right side backing plate there is a tube of large diameter that goes to the medusa's head vac pod, there is a small diameter vac line from the head to the throttle body just behind the T plate. When the vacuum is just right the pod opens and allows air to pass the head to both sets of reed valves.

Removing all that crap and replacing it all with one screw to seal the vac line because that area is just plain hard to reach and a cap could get blown off pretty easy, AND getting Coasters on is the way to go. I had no idea what coasters were when I made my set.

I didn't want coasters not knowing they were almost exactly what I made. LOL

They are just flat plates of the right shape and Chucksters come with the correct bolts in grade 8 and chromed. The plates are nice as is, or are ready for paint. While coasters don't do a thing you must either have them or the reed valve boxes.

These seal the engine heads one way or another. I suspect in time the plastic parts will fail if they have been deactivated.

The reed valves are not connected in any way to the ISC's but start in a similar place both using filtered air.

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Old 07-22-2013, 04:57 PM   #12
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Sweet, I am learning lots about this engine & all the extra crap on it. The engine totally sounded like crap. I just pulled off the solenoids & am going to run into town to get a couple of plugs for the 2 vacuum fittings. I will look into the coaster next
 
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