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09-18-2016, 06:38 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 14
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clutch problem....
ok 2002 nomad, 1500..65000 km
new meanstreak spring with judges washers... slipping gone, grabs good in every gear. now my problem is when i first start up the bike, all works good, I can take off with good clutch feel can control it well... I can slip it or simi holdshot well..but as soon as the bike warms up... stop and go traffic is horrible.. its like I got no play,,,, it wont slip.. it either grabs, or it dont.. I got NO play.. I have to ride the(bleep) out of the clutch to go... it looks like im a first timer riding a bike..lol the warmer it gets the worst it is,,, its almost undriveable, and this problem is only when I take off from a stop, once im moving it grabs like a new bike..... its not the oil... i have been changing it with lucas oil for bikes since I got it..2 years ago, every 2500 -3500km... (i like clean oil)is my clutch done? ... or would a bleed help ???? im thinking that maybe the new spring and judge washers gave a already simi gone clutch its last few miles and toasted the clutch...(maybe)??? Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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09-18-2016, 09:19 PM | #2 |
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Sounds like its sticking or dragging when the clutch is low....
did you change out the clutch plates when installed washers & spring? Had you clutch reserv. been going down? did you have any clutch problems before?
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! |
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09-18-2016, 11:05 PM | #3 |
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Montreal QC
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If you have not changed your clutch hydraulic fluid in a long time, that could be your issue. Moisture in the fluid sort of boils when things get hot and your clutch will not properly or full disengage when you pull the lever in. If it were me, before opening the clutch back up to check your work, I would change the fluid and bleed first to eliminate that possibility.
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09-28-2016, 03:31 PM | #4 |
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well a little update...
i changed the fluid...there was all sorts of gunk in there... the bottom of the reservoir even had a gel like substance... its alll spic and span now the two little holes are all clear too... it was bled till it was crystal clear at the other end... and.. same problem... engine cold... can holdshot off the line.. engine warm,.... no more clutch.... the problem is only to get the bike moving.... changine gears work 100% and downshift is 100% also... |
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09-28-2016, 08:01 PM | #5 |
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Psychiatric Ward FL
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Have you checked the routing of you clutch hose?
Is it Pinched somewhere, or too close to the head or header and flashing the fluid? It may be expanding enough with the heat that there isn't enough fluid movement to throw the clutch. What condition are you fibers in? MT
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09-28-2016, 11:01 PM | #6 |
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OK, Did you check the hose for kinks, as per MAS? You mentioned replacing the spring....did you do the )() ????? Did you put the thust washer between the bearing and the pressure plate?
And did you replace the fiber disc's and steels? Or just put the springs in? Also, did you install the pushrod with the right end going toward the clutch cylinder? Sounds to me like you don't have enough release clearance.... Do me a favor, start the bike up, when you go to put it in gear, pump up the clutch lever 3 or 4 times before putting into gear. Did it make a difference? When you put your clutch back together and if you did replace the clutch plates, give us the #'s, to make sure they gave you the correct thickness of plates. You did remember to leave that last clutch disc 1 notch off, correct? And if they were new, did you soak the fiber plates in oil before the install?
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-29-2016 at 04:37 AM.
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09-29-2016, 04:12 AM | #7 |
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You did remember to leave that last clutch disc 1 notch off, correct?
Can you explain why that is please.I looked until i was blue in the face to see any difference in the plates.And mine works fine.
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when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find. |
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09-29-2016, 04:28 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
KawaAmerica articles and books say not to, they built the damn things. http://oldsarge.tripod.com/clutch_sp...eplacement.htm
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--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-29-2016 at 04:34 AM.
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09-29-2016, 04:30 AM | #9 |
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I guess it is.Thank you.
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when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find. |
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09-29-2016, 05:29 AM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Somewhere South of Alaska....
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page.....267........
http://www2.vulcanrider.se/DL/00-08k...lassicfi-s.pdf I'm going to fraking bed, just got thru overhauling a 1600 engine....I look like a crawfish, my eyes are standing on stems....
__________________
--------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... *My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved* --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride!
Last edited by DragonLady58; 09-29-2016 at 05:37 AM.
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09-29-2016, 09:24 PM | #11 |
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Location: Lake Charles, LA
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Basstoy, if your issue is not fixed, I hunted down a couple of my old posts about some clutch issues I had. They may relate to the problem you are having. Others have had the same problem and this was there issues.
"I can only speak from the experiences that I have been involved in, I have not had to go as in-depth into the clutch system as macmac has. My situation was that my clutch would start to slip and eventually go out after riding for a while and everything got hot. I changed out my clutch spring and bleed my fluids multiple times, changed my oil and even changed out my clutch line thinking it was bad. Shoot, I cleaned the inside of the master cylinder so much you could eat out of it (but don't really try that!) My clutch would seem to get better and then go bad again after riding for a while. The entire time I was having problems, my clutch lever never got floppy and felt as though it was working correctly. What I found my problem to be was, while starting out "cold" the clutch worked fine. After riding for a while and getting "hot" my clutch would slip and eventually stop. So when the bike is "cold", the fluid in the master cylinder is acting properly. While riding and getting "hot" would mean that I would work the clutch to shift gears and stop. Each time working the clutch lever, the master cylinder is sending fluid to the slave cylinder to push the clutch rod in. The seals in my master cylinder were bad and would not create enough of a suction to pull all the fluid back from the slave cylinder. Over time there would be enough pressure in the slave cylinder to not allow the clutch rod to retract and work correctly. This is about the time that I learned that if I would quickly bump (very fast open and close) the banjo bolt, it would release enough pressure to allow my clutch to work correctly for a while until the pressures built up again. I found a rebuild kit for the master cylinder and gave it a try. I found that the sleeve that goes over the spring in the M.C. had a very small tear which was causing the lack of enough suction pressure to pull fluids back. And when the slave cylinder would slowly bleed back to the master cylinder (as the bike "cooled"), I would notice a very small amount of fluid on the bottom exterior side of the master cylinder." "A easy test to do to see if it is a problem with your master cylinder, when your bikes clutch starts to slip, bump the banjo bolt. By bump I mean, quickly open and close the bolt. You can do this while riding so you will know rite away if it is your MC. While riding, carefully use a 12mm wrench to bump the banjo bolt. Just make sure your clutch lever is not pulled in any other wise it will spray some of the fluid out. Just bumping it quickly will be enough to release the built up pressure and will only have a small drop of fluid out, so keep a rag handy. The clutch will then work correctly until it builds up back pressure again. I went ahead and replaced all rubber parts in my MC. All the internal rubber seals and the diaphragm that goes under the top plate. The small tear I had found was on the "49016-1044 COVER SEAL M/C". The kit I ordered (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Clutch-Maste...80c06d&vxp=mtr) had all new internal parts so I just changed everything to new. Just a quick glance, the above seller on ebay I buy parts from ships to Canada: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Clutch-Master...80c06d&vxp=mtr The banjo bolt crush washer I took to a local auto parts store and we were able to match up an new one. I don't know if all this helps, but I hope it does and you can get some riding time in."
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09-29-2016, 09:24 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Sep 2015
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thanks for responses... bike/clutch worked fine for a long time after spring replacement and judges washers install... slipping went away 100% and warm take offs were fine..this I never fiddled with the plates at all... and the hose is not kinked or close to headers... like I said before... once moving.. even 1-2 mph... I can almost spin the back wheel if it was slippery, it grabs like a SOB thru all gears.. its just the start moving from a stop that is the problem,,,, AND only when HOT...
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09-29-2016, 09:26 PM | #13 | |
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Quote:
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09-29-2016, 09:55 PM | #14 | |
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Location: Lake Travis, Texas
Posts: 518
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Quote:
Also I did try the Barnet Spring and didn't care for it and removed it - Reason being what you are talking about. However sounds like you just used the (third party (3) Springs) and 1 new Mean Streak Spring.
Last edited by rolfe; 09-30-2016 at 10:15 PM.
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09-30-2016, 08:26 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
Sounds like you installed too many plates or the plates are too thick. My thought is as it gets hot they get thicker and your clutch movement is not enough to release the pressure. When its hot does the bike try to move with the clutch lever all the way in?
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