Speed Wobble Fix = Complete confusion & disaster

[LikeAPuma]

So I decided to attempt to tighten up the bearings & remedy the famed speed wobble. Went to vulcangadget & found the instructions. Windshield off. Light assembly off. Risers & bars off. Get the 36mm nut off, loosen the pinch bolts... And nothing. So, I figure I have to loosen/unscrew the two bolts on both sides.... WRONG! Metal tube, washer, & end cap go flying.... Got it all put back together, I think (with some help from my wife). Now, I still can't get the triple tree to budge? What am I doing wrong?! Starting to get nervous that it's going to need to be trailered to a shop for them to fix my screw ups.

While I'm at it... Did I totally jack up my fork? Put the washer back in, tube in, then the end cap. Feel like I'm missing something major.

[Snake Ranch]

Do you have a way to take a few pictures of what parts you touched?

[MAS Tequila]

I had to use a hammer to get my triple tree off the first time.

Did you try spreading it where the pinch bolts draw it in?

MT

[LikeAPuma]

This is where I'm currently at. I tried taking off the "fork cap" on the brake side of the bike. Managed to wrangle it back on. If more pictures are needed, just let me know.

[toogun]

i used a heavy rubber mallet and a wood block to nudge it up tapping each side alternately.

[LikeAPuma]

Got it! Thanks guys. I'm mechanically handicapped, but when I bought this bike, I told myself that I'd try to do the majority of the maintenance myself. Need to learn some time!

Everything I've done so far, I've hit a snag at least once on each little project... Usually because of my own ineptitude, but it's always a learning experience.

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[XLR8R]

Koodos to you for trying. Dont give up and take your time. My 2012 Voyager had the wobble going on a half worn Dunflop.
A rebalance of the front wheel and I let all the air out of my rear shocks and lowered the preload to 2 and the wobble went away.
I dont think the trouble comes from the steering stem or the triple tree.
I found a discrepancy while doing an alignment test using the string method (Around the back tire to the front tire) just 3/8" more on the right side. So I adjusted the rear wheel so it was the same space on both sides of the front wheel.
The adjusters with their marks are now not exactly the same on both sides but the wobble is gone.
Good going with the mechanics

If you are replacing the bearings I strongly suggest the tapered roller bearings.
With Ball Bearings dont forget to Preload them and then set proper tension.

[ctrider]

The first thing you should do is get a service manual. Makes life a lot easier, check out eBay. If your trying to tighten the fork bolt you need to have the front end lifted else your not going to know if it's to tight or not tight enough. No need to loosen the fork pinch bolts unless your taking the forks off. Hopefully you have a torque wrench, it's a must. Gadgets page is very good but you will get way more info searchingthe site. If you

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[DragonLady58]

Just in case you want to do your thing regardless....just watch this....it shows you how to adjust for bearing tightness....or preload

[redjay]

Delboy has a lot of good videos.

[DragonLady58]

Yea, he does....helping the bike community! Let me just add, the bearing needs to be setup with -0- play. I've done this more times than I care to recall, but get the bearings good and snug, let it sit there for a few seconds, loosen the bearing, tighten it again, then back it off, then tighten it so the bearing nut is just hitting the bearing, no more. Your looking for -0- lash here. Some mfg'ers have a preload, tighten to that spec if the bike calls for it. Otherwise, sit it up metal to metal, -0- lash!
Remember that grease thats packed in there? You have to squeeze that from between the bearings and the race. Gotta have a good, settled metal to metal contact, -0- play, that grease is in there to lubricate the bearing and protect it.
Now, Gadgets page has a really good suggestion. and its what I've done.
While I had the bearings out, I drilled and tapped a 6mm hole to accept a zerk fitting, grease nipple, grease fitting, whatever you want to call it. Every year, I shoot 2 squirts of grease in there. No, thats not much, but during the summer months, that grease will get hot, when it does, it will flow like a thick soup into that bearing. Every 3rd year, I only give it one shot of grease. Then you've pretty well got enough grease in it for the life of the bearings. Remember, the whole weight of the bike is sitting on that lower steering bearing and the top is adjusted to eliminate the play....
I kept a notebook when I was a service tech, in my toolbox, recording all stuff like this, mileage, months years, for customers bikes, including my own. All this info comes in handy when doing maintenance!
Whatever you do, don't shoot grease in it till it comes past the seals! If you do, the seal is being help open by the grease and contaminants can get in....

[Sabre-t]

Going to be changing my fork oil later this fall and changing the bearings while I have the front end apart. The zerk fitting will be a good additional item.

Thanks for the vid, Gadget's suggestion and the reinforcement about zero lash!

[Navigator]

Originally Posted by DragonLady58

Yea, he does....helping the bike community! Let me just add, the bearing needs to be setup with -0- play. I've done this more times than I care to recall, but get the bearings good and snug, let it sit there for a few seconds, loosen the bearing, tighten it again, then back it off, then tighten it so the bearing nut is just hitting the bearing, no more. Your looking for -0- lash here. Some mfg'ers have a preload, tighten to that spec if the bike calls for it. Otherwise, sit it up metal to metal, -0- lash!
Remember that grease thats packed in there? You have to squeeze that from between the bearings and the race. Gotta have a good, settled metal to metal contact, -0- play, that grease is in there to lubricate the bearing and protect it.
Now, Gadgets page has a really good suggestion. and its what I've done.
While I had the bearings out, I drilled and tapped a 6mm hole to accept a zerk fitting, grease nipple, grease fitting, whatever you want to call it. Every year, I shoot 2 squirts of grease in there. No, thats not much, but during the summer months, that grease will get hot, when it does, it will flow like a thick soup into that bearing. Every 3rd year, I only give it one shot of grease. Then you've pretty well got enough grease in it for the life of the bearings. Remember, the whole weight of the bike is sitting on that lower steering bearing and the top is adjusted to eliminate the play....
I kept a notebook when I was a service tech, in my toolbox, recording all stuff like this, mileage, months years, for customers bikes, including my own. All this info comes in handy when doing maintenance!
Whatever you do, don't shoot grease in it till it comes past the seals! If you do, the seal is being help open by the grease and contaminants can get in....

Drilling the steering head is an excellent idea and I really don't know why they aren't in there to begin with. I did so on my 1988 Electra Glide because servicing the steering head bearings was a real chore, that is removing the inner and outer fairing to get at them. I also installed one on my 1967 Triumph TR6C. It really helps to keep that lower bearing running free and easy.