Is it okay to use bullet connectors for handlebar wiring extension?

[sufguts]

Putting 14" apes on my Nomad right now and I'm most likely going to try to do the wiring thru the bars. I'd like to do bullet connectors (with that plastic sleeve on it) if possible since the factory connectors are too big to feed thru the bars, so if I solder the wires they'll be permanently attached. Any reason that's a bad idea?

[BrokeAss]

Yeah, because bullets blow. They were fine for a HAM radio install in 1982, but not to be trusted in weather or vibration. Go with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Mo...%2C179&sr=8-10

Or, simply cut the factory plugs off with 4" of wire left, solder on well-marked extensions to make it through the apes, then solder the extensions to the plugs you cut off and plug directly back into the bike.

[VulcanE]

I'd go with BrokeAss' second suggestion, and add to shrink wrap the soldered joints.

[sufguts]

Yeah I guess I'll just "hard wire" them then. Im sure I won't ever go back to stock anyway.

[ringadingh]

I too would solder and heat shrink the connections, its not that much more work, and you will have a solid permanent repair.

[BrokeAss]

Originally Posted by sufguts

Yeah I guess I'll just "hard wire" them then. Im sure I won't ever go back to stock anyway.

Even if you went back to stock, you simply cut out the extensions and solder the wires back together at stock length. Or find a clean set of used switch housings on eBay.

[sufguts]

Originally Posted by BrokeAss

Even if you went back to stock, you simply cut out the extensions and solder the wires back together at stock length. Or find a clean set of used switch housings on eBay.

Yeah good point

[DragonLady58]

There are several wiring kits that even have all the diff. colored wires, make use of these when adding taller bars.
Remove the original controls and extend your wires, solder\shrink wrap them, making sure that there's no shorts and everything is done 1st class.
If you need to go back stock, do as said, pick up stock bars and controls...
There's alot of diff. Weatherproof connectors at Amazon, make good use of them upgrading your bike and wiring system...
Corrosion, dirt, loose connectors cause 80% of electrical problems on bikes.
Remember to also use dielectric grease on the appropriate connectors....

[Thom]

I have wired more bars internally than I would like to admit. Do not use any type of connectors. Solder the joint, shrink wrap, and stagger the solders so when you fish the wires through the bar they will not bind up. Use baby powder as a lubricant to slide the wires through. Good luck

[DragonLady58]

Let me give the masses a little word of advice here. Being that I was a Professional Motorcycle Mechanic for over 35 years....nothing is more upsetting than to drop a couple of super small parts onto a dirty unclean floor looking for a BB and a spring....
Everyone, step back, unfasten your bars by the bolts and the caps, unplug the connectors, remove the bars. While this my sound frivolous to some, after you've done this a time or two....you'll opt for my solution....
Find a nice 3x3 wooden table (doesn't have to be fancy!), get a old beach towel, or a couple of old dirty white stained bath towels your other half has thrown out, staple it to the wooden table, pull up a chair, throw bars up on wooden table, keep the soldering iron on a seperate stand. Make yourself at home and extend some wires! I usually leave about 6 inches to allow some room to tuck wires away and hide the connectors....If you accidently drop small springs, balls contacts onto the towel, they will stay there instead of rolling away....Or bouncing off to god knows where....
And Now you have a electrical/polishing table! I bought a old wooden plank style card table at a garage sale about 20+ years ago for $5, followed me to the dealership....I stapled down 2 old towels to it....everyone used it for the electrics! Folks even started adding out riggers to hold tools, rags, radios, etc.... There was someone sitting at that table at least a couple of hours each day. Magically, about 2 others popped up around the shop....

Your work will go alot faster, less distraction, easier to reach things, fishing wires alot easier....and just plainly put, alot more comfortable!
The more comfy you are, the faster it'll go and the better the job will be done....

Then, after you have finished extending your wires, while you have all your wiring stuff laid out, I would suggest adding weather proof connectors where your bars wiring connects to the main harness, if you love and are gonna keep your bike.... Probably won't happen in a year or two....but eventually, those plastic plugs get hard, brittle, the locking tongs break off the connectors....just install the newer ones....while you have everything apart, its the perfect time....

Places on my bike where I have updated things with weatherproof connectors? Saddlebags, driving lights up front, and my batwing fairing....
DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT USE THESE FOR YOUR ALT/REG CONNECTIONs!!!!! The connectors/wire att. points are for too small a wire....you will burn things up cause those alts put out some juice....too small a wire and they'll melt!

Always chamfer your holes, and use shrink wrap going into and leaving the holes in you handle bars....deburr hole inside and out....before wiring....
Always watch for 'pinch points', (steering smashing or pulling wires), sharp edges to cut wires, (burrs, sharp metal brackets, etc), and melt hazzards (exhaust)....

[mbarr10]

[sufguts]

Got this all done, soldered & heatshrinked everything, new stainless brake line, was able to reroute the clutch and throttle cables. Will probably upgrade the clutch & lower front brake lines to stainless once I'm a millionaire.


Only "issue" I have is the bars shake at idle with my hands off of them, they're fine when my hands are on them. Would bar end weights be what I want for that? And any suggestions on which ones? I read on a Harley forum that Polyurethane Riser Bushings help with vibrations, not sure if that applies to our bikes?