Need help please

p_betz1216 · 03-30-2020, 01:22 PM

Ok here's where I'm at

So I installed yet another new pump and new filter , just do everyone know’s, No problem there , but yesterday like last weekend bike started off good went for a nice long ride no problem after a while of riding bike got real hot as normal but she started sputtering like she was running out of gas ( but it wasn’t a gas issue ) and bike just shut down. Would crank but not turn over , after awhile when bike cooled completely down, she fired right up and ran like nothing wrong until it got really hot again. Yesterday when it did this I placed a hand on one of the coils and it was real hot . So I’m leaning towards a bad coil , but someone said that right before bike cut out that my lights dimmed and flickered right before bike died . Which ok if bike stalls or dies that happens. But it also from cranking over , drains battery and does like a slow crank as battery runs down from trying. Could that also mean my voltage regulators /rectifiers are bad ( I have dual rectifiers also )
I checked wires by doing the shake test with tank off bike running tugging on wires and checking connections I can see and get too , shook main harness and nothing nor did I see anything abnormal. I’m stumped 🤔

p_betz1216 · 03-30-2020, 01:25 PM

It’s a 1999 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad VN1500G1A with just under 42,000 miles. It has Been jetted , no Reed valves , big air kit , Vance and Hines Monster ovals true dual, no goat bladder .

radco · 03-30-2020, 03:54 PM

I am sure the gear heads will chime in with better answers but here is my opinion

When getting hot do you mean over heating ?

I am sure you already checked and I am no gear head but how is the Anti freeze level ? Loosing any ? Does the fan come on ??? Maybe thermostat stuck closed !
Sorry I am not much help but that is all I have heard of ! Good luck and Please Update what you do find,

soccer4m · 03-30-2020, 05:30 PM

Since lights are affected its probably not coil,,,,maybe check battery,,,put a voltmeter while cranking, should be at least 11volts, while running 13 plus volts, at rest 12 plus volts,,,,How old is battery?? Anyway, I am not a total gearhead but check these and get back to the forum with results....hope its an easy fix,,,new battery...Mike in Sun Diego, also have same bike, greenie Nomad

**tomm** · 03-30-2020, 05:56 PM

So if I got this right, bike starts right up when cool, but dies when hot, and lights go dim just before it dies. But it isn't over-heating. Just dies when it gets normally hot.
Guess a few things come to mind.
If something was intermittently shorting out, I would think a fuse would blow. If a coil was going bad, it would only affect one cylinder. It wouldn't run well, but it would still run. Sounds more like a poor connection that heats up and opens, then cools off and reconnects. And whatever it is that is opening up, it affects the whole bike. All that make sense to you? So check all the connections from the battery to the fuse box, and all the ground connections back to the battery. Whatever it is, it has to be something that affects everything.
Before you go diving into measurements, try this. It sounds crazy, but just might be the problem. I had a very similar problem once, albeit on a different bike. Turned out the main fuse was bad. Didn't blow. Just cracked at one of the internal joints. Heated up and opened. Cooled off and reconnected. Drove me nuts finding it. Check other fuses too.

p_betz1216 · 03-30-2020, 05:59 PM

Battery is 1.5 years old , and it’s not over heating like a cooling issue . I live in the Deep South . It very hot here . Now to explain. While riding the bike for awhile bike gets hot as normal. Our bikes run hot .
But the coil was hot to the touch , while the other was cool ? And I would think �� that as the bike was getting ready to stall or die out the lights would dim or flicker as she’s sputtering and getting ready to stall . Once bike cools down enough it restarts and rides as if nothing is wrong. Again coils are original to bike as is regulators/ Rectifiers

p_betz1216 · 03-30-2020, 06:02 PM

Coils can do the same things the internal windings can have a crack or separation in them that when cool it’s closed but as it heaps up it expands and arcs out

DragonLady58 · 03-30-2020, 09:20 PM

OK, theres several things you need to check, to narrow this down.
This could be a coil....when I test, I just replace it, since I have a few spares. They should get warm, really warm, but not hot. Hot enough to not keep your hand on it. Look in your repair manual and test your coil if you have a multitester.
Could also be your fuel filter stopping up, or your pump on its way out. But since you said the light flickering and going out, I'm leaning more toward a electrical issue....
Start your bike in the driveway, get her up to temp., when she shuts off, using a small battery or a decent battery charger, not a trickle charger, hook your battery up, using the 10 amp setting. It should start right up if its the battery or charging system. With a healthy battery and charging system, at idle you should have 13 to 13.5 volts at the battery. reving her up should be about 14 to 14.5 but not any higher. Alt. voltage while running from the alts should be around 70 to 72 volts ac
If she doesn't, could be your coil.
How long has it been since you've changed your plugs? You can usually pick them up on ebay/amazon.
I have a small mechanics remote fuel bottle, hooked up to a remote auto EFI pump (Holley Blue), that I use to check the fuel systems with.... When I use that and she starts, its the pump, the filter, or both.
With 40K on the clock, a really good basic tuneup is needed, and need to check things thoroughly, to keep you from being stranded....y higher.

p_betz1216 · 03-31-2020, 07:05 AM

Plugs were just replaced, less than 50 miles ago . NGK . New NGK plug caps . Fresh oil and filter change . I did make a error after going through paperwork battery is ruffly 3 years old it’s a amg battery.
Rectifiers are original as well as coils . Bike is always well maintained. New ebc clutch plates and friction plates , Barnett spring , new washers . Ect. This has started all of a sudden. 3 weeks prior went on a 800 mile round trip road with no issues except for having to jump bike twice due to cold weather drained down battery.
So I am going to replace battery also . Just to rule that out

**ringadingh** · 03-31-2020, 07:43 AM

Take a look at the wires from the rectifiers, they are located behind the LH engine cover, and have been known to start melting and shorting out, at the plugs.

p_betz1216 · 03-31-2020, 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ringadingh

Take a look at the wires from the rectifiers, they are located behind the LH engine cover, and have been known to start melting and shorting out, at the plugs.

Will do

**MAS Tequila** · 03-31-2020, 11:53 AM

Put the old plugs back in, a bad plug or wire could heat that coil up.

p_betz1216 · 03-31-2020, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAS Tequila

Put the old plugs back in, a bad plug or wire could heat that coil up.

How could old plugs cause that ?

**plumber63** · 03-31-2020, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by p_betz1216

How could old plugs cause that ?

Think he is saying one of the new plugs could be bad.

p_betz1216 · 03-31-2020, 08:14 PM

https://www.google.com/search?client...&bih=628&dpr=3
Ok tested rectifiers per video with multimeter ,
On first rectifier I got low 200’ on all hot side ( like 185-195 )
On second rectifier I got one lead at 415 , the rest were again low 200,s
So that tells me if I’m understanding it correctly that Rectifiers are no good
Battery tested good and in working order which tells me stator is going it’s job

03-30-2020, 01:22 PM	#1
p_betz1216 Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 32	Need help please Ok here's where I'm at So I installed yet another new pump and new filter , just do everyone know’s, No problem there , but yesterday like last weekend bike started off good went for a nice long ride no problem after a while of riding bike got real hot as normal but she started sputtering like she was running out of gas ( but it wasn’t a gas issue ) and bike just shut down. Would crank but not turn over , after awhile when bike cooled completely down, she fired right up and ran like nothing wrong until it got really hot again. Yesterday when it did this I placed a hand on one of the coils and it was real hot . So I’m leaning towards a bad coil , but someone said that right before bike cut out that my lights dimmed and flickered right before bike died . Which ok if bike stalls or dies that happens. But it also from cranking over , drains battery and does like a slow crank as battery runs down from trying. Could that also mean my voltage regulators /rectifiers are bad ( I have dual rectifiers also ) I checked wires by doing the shake test with tank off bike running tugging on wires and checking connections I can see and get too , shook main harness and nothing nor did I see anything abnormal. I’m stumped 🤔 Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-30-2020, 03:54 PM	#3
radco Sr. Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Dedham Maine Posts: 4,199	I am sure the gear heads will chime in with better answers but here is my opinion When getting hot do you mean over heating ? I am sure you already checked and I am no gear head but how is the Anti freeze level ? Loosing any ? Does the fan come on ??? Maybe thermostat stuck closed ! Sorry I am not much help but that is all I have heard of ! Good luck and Please Update what you do find, __________________
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03-30-2020, 05:56 PM	#5
tomm Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Lee, New Hampshire Posts: 568	So if I got this right, bike starts right up when cool, but dies when hot, and lights go dim just before it dies. But it isn't over-heating. Just dies when it gets normally hot. Guess a few things come to mind. If something was intermittently shorting out, I would think a fuse would blow. If a coil was going bad, it would only affect one cylinder. It wouldn't run well, but it would still run. Sounds more like a poor connection that heats up and opens, then cools off and reconnects. And whatever it is that is opening up, it affects the whole bike. All that make sense to you? So check all the connections from the battery to the fuse box, and all the ground connections back to the battery. Whatever it is, it has to be something that affects everything. Before you go diving into measurements, try this. It sounds crazy, but just might be the problem. I had a very similar problem once, albeit on a different bike. Turned out the main fuse was bad. Didn't blow. Just cracked at one of the internal joints. Heated up and opened. Cooled off and reconnected. Drove me nuts finding it. Check other fuses too. __________________ Tom Maziarz (tomm) VBA #00766 2008 Kawasaki Nomad (Black) 1978 Suzuki GS750EC (My son is riding it now.) 2017: National Rally - Lake George, NY 2016: NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2015: National Rally - Eureka Springs, AR 2014: NE US / E Canada Rally - Lincoln, NH 2012: NE US / E Canada Rally - Wellsboro, PA Login or Register to Remove Ads
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03-30-2020, 09:20 PM	#8
DragonLady58 Sr. Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Somewhere South of Alaska.... Posts: 2,351	OK, theres several things you need to check, to narrow this down. This could be a coil....when I test, I just replace it, since I have a few spares. They should get warm, really warm, but not hot. Hot enough to not keep your hand on it. Look in your repair manual and test your coil if you have a multitester. Could also be your fuel filter stopping up, or your pump on its way out. But since you said the light flickering and going out, I'm leaning more toward a electrical issue.... Start your bike in the driveway, get her up to temp., when she shuts off, using a small battery or a decent battery charger, not a trickle charger, hook your battery up, using the 10 amp setting. It should start right up if its the battery or charging system. With a healthy battery and charging system, at idle you should have 13 to 13.5 volts at the battery. reving her up should be about 14 to 14.5 but not any higher. Alt. voltage while running from the alts should be around 70 to 72 volts ac If she doesn't, could be your coil. How long has it been since you've changed your plugs? You can usually pick them up on ebay/amazon. I have a small mechanics remote fuel bottle, hooked up to a remote auto EFI pump (Holley Blue), that I use to check the fuel systems with.... When I use that and she starts, its the pump, the filter, or both. With 40K on the clock, a really good basic tuneup is needed, and need to check things thoroughly, to keep you from being stranded....y higher. __________________ --------------------- Don't start no schit, there won't be no schit.... My Sarcasm is directly proportional to the amount of Stupidity involved --------------------- VBA#03239 VROC#37400 VRA --------------------- 2014 Vaquero 2001 Nomad FI 2003 Street Glide (sold) 1500 Meanie, fresh rebuild (sold) 90s BUBF Bobber (sold) 2001 UltraCycle FatPounder (Sold) 1975 HD ElectraGlide (Sold) 1982 Kawasaki Z1 Chopper (Sold) Suck It Up & Ride! Last edited by DragonLady58; 03-30-2020 at 09:30 PM.
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03-31-2020, 07:43 AM	#10
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	Take a look at the wires from the rectifiers, they are located behind the LH engine cover, and have been known to start melting and shorting out, at the plugs. __________________ 2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951
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03-30-2020, 01:25 PM	#2
p_betz1216 Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 32	It’s a 1999 Kawasaki Vulcan Nomad VN1500G1A with just under 42,000 miles. It has Been jetted , no Reed valves , big air kit , Vance and Hines Monster ovals true dual, no goat bladder .
	0

03-30-2020, 05:30 PM	#4
soccer4m Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2018 Location: San Diego Posts: 22	Since lights are affected its probably not coil,,,,maybe check battery,,,put a voltmeter while cranking, should be at least 11volts, while running 13 plus volts, at rest 12 plus volts,,,,How old is battery?? Anyway, I am not a total gearhead but check these and get back to the forum with results....hope its an easy fix,,,new battery...Mike in Sun Diego, also have same bike, greenie Nomad
	0

03-30-2020, 05:59 PM	#6
p_betz1216 Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 32	Battery is 1.5 years old , and it’s not over heating like a cooling issue . I live in the Deep South . It very hot here . Now to explain. While riding the bike for awhile bike gets hot as normal. Our bikes run hot . But the coil was hot to the touch , while the other was cool ? And I would think �� that as the bike was getting ready to stall or die out the lights would dim or flicker as she’s sputtering and getting ready to stall . Once bike cools down enough it restarts and rides as if nothing is wrong. Again coils are original to bike as is regulators/ Rectifiers
	0

03-30-2020, 06:02 PM	#7
p_betz1216 Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 32	Coils can do the same things the internal windings can have a crack or separation in them that when cool it’s closed but as it heaps up it expands and arcs out
	0

03-31-2020, 07:05 AM	#9
p_betz1216 Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 32	Plugs were just replaced, less than 50 miles ago . NGK . New NGK plug caps . Fresh oil and filter change . I did make a error after going through paperwork battery is ruffly 3 years old it’s a amg battery. Rectifiers are original as well as coils . Bike is always well maintained. New ebc clutch plates and friction plates , Barnett spring , new washers . Ect. This has started all of a sudden. 3 weeks prior went on a 800 mile round trip road with no issues except for having to jump bike twice due to cold weather drained down battery. So I am going to replace battery also . Just to rule that out
	0

03-31-2020, 11:53 AM	#12
MAS Tequila Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Psychiatric Ward FL Posts: 3,429	Put the old plugs back in, a bad plug or wire could heat that coil up. __________________ MT 2016 FLHP Psychiatric Ward FL VBA 936
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03-31-2020, 08:14 PM	#15
p_betz1216 Jr. Member Join Date: Mar 2017 Posts: 32	https://www.google.com/search?client...&bih=628&dpr=3 Ok tested rectifiers per video with multimeter , On first rectifier I got low 200’ on all hot side ( like 185-195 ) On second rectifier I got one lead at 415 , the rest were again low 200,s So that tells me if I’m understanding it correctly that Rectifiers are no good Battery tested good and in working order which tells me stator is going it’s job
	0