Blowing fuses

[dennisbailey]

I installed my Run-Stop-Turn kit and started blowing the fuse to the tail light and turn signal. While I was trying to figure out why I realized that my front running lights were out also. Replaced another fuse and blew it again and found that the front running lights are tied into the rear tail light and turn signals. A friend told me that I should replace the 10 amp fuse with a 15 or 20 amp and that the wiring would hold up ok and that there would be no problems. I put a 15 amp in and it has held up and not blown since then. Does anyone have any concerns about increasing the fuse by 5 amps? Don't think I want to jump up 10 extra amps but 5 doesn't seem to bad and it keeps the turn signals, brake lights, rear tail light and front running lights working. When I get back from Yuma Monday I think I will look into rewiring the front running lights to relief some of the stress on the fuse and wiring and then maybe I can go back to the 10 amp.

[hammer]

Personally I do not like the idea of increasing the amp load to a circuit that it is probably not designed to take. While I am sure there is some headroom, that's a 50% increase in amp pressure on the circuit.

[ringadingh]

Are you sure it all connected properly? Adding a kit as you describe really shouldn't change the load at all on the circuit if its the type Im thinking of. The rear signals become marker lights by running at a reduced voltage, and become brake and turn signals when 12V is applied.
Do you have any other accessories attached to this circuit? and what brand is your control module.

[Cajunrider]

Dennis, I installed the same kit well over a year ago and haven't popped a fuse yet. One thing to remember is if you plan to wire up a Hoppy Converter to pull a trailer, splice the Hoppy in upstream of the Run Stop Turn module. Wiring in between the module and tail lights will fry the module.

[mercianbike]

I installed the Kuryakyn run-stop-turn kit and have no problem with fuses. I did have a problem initially where one signal would flash rapidly while the other one was normal. I discussed this with Kuryakyn and determined that the load equalizer was defective. After replacing it, everything was fine. The load equalizer is rated at 4 amps. What I'm suggesting is that maybe your equalizer is faulty and drawing too much current. If your conversion kit is from Kuryakyn, you might want to discuss this with their customer service.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go...ustomerService

[cactusjack]

Never put in a larger fuse that exceeds the intended circuit capacity to try and fix a problem. Your friend is dispensing bad advice.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

I am with Hammer on not liking the idea of increasing the amp's on the fuse. There is some type overload and that is where I would look. Try to figure out a different way to wire it. The fuse's are a safety feature and by increasing the amp's would defeat their purpose.

[jandreu]

Same here Dennis, I have the TW on my 07 and have had no issues.

[strobe]

+1 on not installing a larger fuse. There is a problem somewhere in your installation and installing the larger fuse is asking for trouble. The wiring harness on the bike is designed for a certain load, exceeding that load can quickly cause major problems, a melted harness and worst case a fire. Put the 10 amp back in and find the source of the problem would be my advise.

[Yellow Jacket]

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER replace a fuse with a higher amperage fuse! Did I say NEVER? Just in case, I really mean NEVER.

I would not listen to anyone that gives that advice.

As the others have said, find the source of the problem and correct it. Something is definitely wrong and it's not the fact that the front running lights and the tail light are on the same circuit.

[wheelie]

If you are referring to spot lights as running lights make sure you have a relay in that circuit. The relay will handle the extra load, and a 10 amp fuse will be enough.

[wiz]

Another hint on the Kuryakn kit is to use LED bulbs in the rear turn signals and tail light so you don't have any heat problems with bulbs that are now always on but in a housing made for occasional flashing - and you also draw less power with bilbs that will not burn out.

[AlabamaNomadRider]

So Dennis, did you ever figure out the reason the fuse keeps blowing? How about an update.

[keith23]

This is from any earlier post.

The 1st month after I got my 08 Nomad I purchased the Kuryakyn Triple Whammy run-turn-brake light kit. It worked great and made the bike a lot more visible. After about 2 weeks my left blinker quit working and the right side would just come on solid.
I removed the kit and still had same problem. I took it back to the dealer and my turn signal switch on the handle bars the wires going up to it were burned up. The Dealer had to replace it all. He said they see this happening quite often. He said the gauge of the wire is to small to support the current draw when your sitting at the long light with the brakes on and the blinker blinking. The good news was I got it repaired the same day because he started stocking switches and wiring harnesses for most models because of this issue. I did get a really sweet looking set of bezels for the rear signals out of the whole experience for only $109 bucks. Anybody want to buy the Triple whammy minus the bezels real cheap let me know.