Rear brake issue...HELP!

ldhthept · 12-25-2014, 11:10 PM

06 Nomad, 41k miles. Several wks ago I was checking the air in my rear tire after a short ride and found my rear rotor quite warm. Checked the front rotors and not even close to being warm. I use both front and rear to brake, mainly the front. After searching this site for info I have done the following over the last few weeks; Replaced the rear rotor, Replaced the rear brake pads, Rebuilt the rear caliper, there was little/no grease on the slides so i packed them pretty well with some caliper grease. Ordered a rebuild kit for the rear master but they sent me one for the front master instead, so I took the master apart anyway, no leaks, cleaned it up real well, replaced the O ring and the Carter key, and bled the rear system about 57 times today and then went for a short ride to see if i fixed anything. The rear brake does not work at all and went i got home the rotor was quite warm. What the Hell? Had my son push in the brake pedal and i could see the most rearward piston moving to contact the pad and move off when he let off of the pedal, could not really see the front piston for all the steam coming out of my ears. I am really tired of fooling with this but I dont really have much faith in the local dealer. Any ideas? I need all the advice I can get.

**ringadingh** · 12-26-2014, 10:05 AM

Make sure that you have bled the brake lines properly, it sounds like you may still have some air in them.

redjay · 12-26-2014, 10:16 AM

Is there a possibility the brake pedal is not actuating the brake cylinder as much as you think ? Has the brake pedal moved around on the splines presuming it is splined ?
Do you get a solid feel on the pedal when it is applied or does it fail to feel solid ?
Are you sure the piston in the cylinder is coming out as far as it can ? Are the brake pads you installed the correct brake pads with enough material to actually clamp on the rotor ? How does the amount of brake material on them compare to the front brake pads ?

k9sarky · 12-26-2014, 12:14 PM

Could there be an issue with the rubber brake line coming apart on the inside and not allowing the fluid to move properly?

recumbentbob · 12-26-2014, 12:58 PM

My 08 nomad had 2 bleeders on the rear brake you have to bleed both. I did front one first then the rear one

mick56 · 12-26-2014, 04:31 PM

OR, buy a harley/bmw/victory/ and you will get shit load's of advice

ldhthept · 12-26-2014, 06:44 PM

thx for all the replies. I will continue to bleed the brake lines using the hand held pump, did not take the brake pedal off its attachment but did adjust the position of the piston as per the manual for correct pedal height. brake pedal does go almost the way to the bottom but little/no brake action felt, which leads me to think that i do still have some air in the lines and yes i bled both pistons, repeatedly. yes correct pads and much more material than on the front, different/more expensive brand as well... wonder if that makes a difference? if anyone has any more advice other than buy a harley/bmw/victory... i already get shit loads of advice...im married, i just ignore that but it doesnt help me with my brake issues. hey maybe i can just push her off each time i want to stop......

mick56 · 12-26-2014, 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ldhthept

thx for all the replies. I will continue to bleed the brake lines using the hand held pump, did not take the brake pedal off its attachment but did adjust the position of the piston as per the manual for correct pedal height. brake pedal does go almost the way to the bottom but little/no brake action felt, which leads me to think that i do still have some air in the lines and yes i bled both pistons, repeatedly. yes correct pads and much more material than on the front, different/more expensive brand as well... wonder if that makes a difference? if anyone has any more advice other than buy a harley/bmw/victory... i already get shit loads of advice...im married, i just ignore that but it doesnt help me with my brake issues. hey maybe i can just push her off each time i want to stop......

Hey mate, i am sorry that i did'nt have anything more constructive to add,and you might thank me for that one day, but it aint all about being serious, is it.

recumbentbob · 12-26-2014, 07:32 PM

Then there's only 2 things left brake line and master cylinder.
My guess would be brake line. Since it's so close to the exhaust & engine heat.

**minst7877** · 12-26-2014, 07:41 PM

I would lean toward a bad brake line. Look at it real close as you depress the pedal and see if it is swelling anywhere.

DC

classic1 · 12-26-2014, 09:10 PM

Sounds like you need to bleed the "master cylinder". I know that on the front master cylinder I had to:
- take the brake line off at the master cylinder
- put my thumb over the hole
- slowly squeeze the lever while letting any air out passed my thumb
- press thumb against hole while releasing lever
- repeat and keep eye on fluid level until no air
- makes a mess and paint does not like brake fluid
Also, I have an 06 and looked at the rear master cylinder, doesn't look easy.
But we used to have to "bench bleed" new master cylinders on autos.
Good luck.

ldhthept · 12-26-2014, 09:59 PM

Hey no worries Mick56, I do need to learn to lighten up more often.
Classic1, I didn't think about bleeding the master while I had it off, may have to do that, I have done that on the front master on another bike.
I was gonna replace the brake line with a stainless one...

VulcanE · 12-27-2014, 09:15 AM

Can't offer anything more than what has already been suggested, but on your original statement "06 Nomad, 41k miles. Several wks ago I was checking the air in my rear tire after a short ride and found my rear rotor quite warm." It will be a lot warmer than the front due mainly to it's location. It doesn't get as much clean air flow, It is between 2 hot exhaust pipes, and it is bolted directly to a driven part of the drive line. Check the final drive on the other side, and you will find it gets quiet warm too. My rear rotor since day 1 has gotten very warm every time I ride. Just saying this to say, unless yours gets so hot it discolors the rotor, you may not have had a problem to start with.

smokey · 12-27-2014, 10:23 AM

as long as the brakes release and activate as they should there is no problem, raise the rear wheel off the ground, spin the wheel, if it spins freely no problem, apply the brake it should grab okay, release the brake and if it spins freely with no drag it is okay.

paul · 12-28-2014, 02:55 PM

Nothing new to add, sorry. But just wanted to confirm, the warm rotor thing seems to be somewhat normal. It worried the bejeebers out of me too, till I figured it out.

12-25-2014, 11:10 PM	#1
ldhthept Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tallahassee FL Posts: 1,036	Rear brake issue...HELP! 06 Nomad, 41k miles. Several wks ago I was checking the air in my rear tire after a short ride and found my rear rotor quite warm. Checked the front rotors and not even close to being warm. I use both front and rear to brake, mainly the front. After searching this site for info I have done the following over the last few weeks; Replaced the rear rotor, Replaced the rear brake pads, Rebuilt the rear caliper, there was little/no grease on the slides so i packed them pretty well with some caliper grease. Ordered a rebuild kit for the rear master but they sent me one for the front master instead, so I took the master apart anyway, no leaks, cleaned it up real well, replaced the O ring and the Carter key, and bled the rear system about 57 times today and then went for a short ride to see if i fixed anything. The rear brake does not work at all and went i got home the rotor was quite warm. What the Hell? Had my son push in the brake pedal and i could see the most rearward piston moving to contact the pad and move off when he let off of the pedal, could not really see the front piston for all the steam coming out of my ears. I am really tired of fooling with this but I dont really have much faith in the local dealer. Any ideas? I need all the advice I can get. Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-26-2014, 10:05 AM	#2
ringadingh Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Newmarket Ontario Canada Posts: 35,387	Make sure that you have bled the brake lines properly, it sounds like you may still have some air in them. __________________ 2002 Nomad aka Bountyhunter VBA #27 VROC #18951
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12-26-2014, 12:58 PM	#5
recumbentbob Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Newburgh IN Posts: 3,404	My 08 nomad had 2 bleeders on the rear brake you have to bleed both. I did front one first then the rear one __________________ VBA #01084 "A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed." Login or Register to Remove Ads
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12-26-2014, 04:31 PM	#6
mick56 Sr. Member Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: The Newforest, England Posts: 4,664	OR, buy a harley/bmw/victory/ and you will get shit load's of advice __________________ when this you see, remember me, and bear me in your mind, let all the world say what they may, speak of me as you find.
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12-26-2014, 07:32 PM	#9
recumbentbob Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Newburgh IN Posts: 3,404	Then there's only 2 things left brake line and master cylinder. My guess would be brake line. Since it's so close to the exhaust & engine heat. __________________ VBA #01084 "A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the People to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed."
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12-26-2014, 10:16 AM	#3
redjay Top Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Ontario Posts: 6,948	Is there a possibility the brake pedal is not actuating the brake cylinder as much as you think ? Has the brake pedal moved around on the splines presuming it is splined ? Do you get a solid feel on the pedal when it is applied or does it fail to feel solid ? Are you sure the piston in the cylinder is coming out as far as it can ? Are the brake pads you installed the correct brake pads with enough material to actually clamp on the rotor ? How does the amount of brake material on them compare to the front brake pads ?
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12-26-2014, 12:14 PM	#4
k9sarky Member Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Western Kentucky Posts: 167	Could there be an issue with the rubber brake line coming apart on the inside and not allowing the fluid to move properly?
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12-26-2014, 06:44 PM	#7
ldhthept Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tallahassee FL Posts: 1,036	thx for all the replies. I will continue to bleed the brake lines using the hand held pump, did not take the brake pedal off its attachment but did adjust the position of the piston as per the manual for correct pedal height. brake pedal does go almost the way to the bottom but little/no brake action felt, which leads me to think that i do still have some air in the lines and yes i bled both pistons, repeatedly. yes correct pads and much more material than on the front, different/more expensive brand as well... wonder if that makes a difference? if anyone has any more advice other than buy a harley/bmw/victory... i already get shit loads of advice...im married, i just ignore that but it doesnt help me with my brake issues. hey maybe i can just push her off each time i want to stop......
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12-26-2014, 07:41 PM	#10
minst7877 Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,286	I would lean toward a bad brake line. Look at it real close as you depress the pedal and see if it is swelling anywhere. DC __________________ Me and my 99 G1 Nomad on US 2 by the Lake Michigan Shoreline. Judge's Oil Gear failed and engine overhauled @ 35563 miles VBA/KawaNOW #01625 Christian Motorcyclists Assoc. Wheels Of Destiny Chapter #735 PA Wilds NE/Eastern Canada regional rally July 2012 Eureka Springs National 2015 Rolling Thunder Washington DC 2016 NE US / E Canada Rally - Mont Tremblant, QC 2016 VRA Eastern National at Maggie Valley 2017 99 Nomad G1 gone but never forgotten traded 4/8/17 for a 2017 Indian Roadmaster
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12-26-2014, 09:10 PM	#11
classic1 Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: waynesboro, va Posts: 408	Sounds like you need to bleed the "master cylinder". I know that on the front master cylinder I had to: - take the brake line off at the master cylinder - put my thumb over the hole - slowly squeeze the lever while letting any air out passed my thumb - press thumb against hole while releasing lever - repeat and keep eye on fluid level until no air - makes a mess and paint does not like brake fluid Also, I have an 06 and looked at the rear master cylinder, doesn't look easy. But we used to have to "bench bleed" new master cylinders on autos. Good luck.
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12-26-2014, 09:59 PM	#12
ldhthept Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Tallahassee FL Posts: 1,036	Hey no worries Mick56, I do need to learn to lighten up more often. Classic1, I didn't think about bleeding the master while I had it off, may have to do that, I have done that on the front master on another bike. I was gonna replace the brake line with a stainless one...
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12-27-2014, 09:15 AM	#13
VulcanE Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Cartersville, Georgia Posts: 4,838	Can't offer anything more than what has already been suggested, but on your original statement "06 Nomad, 41k miles. Several wks ago I was checking the air in my rear tire after a short ride and found my rear rotor quite warm." It will be a lot warmer than the front due mainly to it's location. It doesn't get as much clean air flow, It is between 2 hot exhaust pipes, and it is bolted directly to a driven part of the drive line. Check the final drive on the other side, and you will find it gets quiet warm too. My rear rotor since day 1 has gotten very warm every time I ride. Just saying this to say, unless yours gets so hot it discolors the rotor, you may not have had a problem to start with. __________________ Cliff "VulcanE" Evans 2005 Blue & Silver 1600 Nomad VBA # 320 VROC # 20381
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12-27-2014, 10:23 AM	#14
smokey Sr. Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Orleans, ON, Canada Posts: 1,162	as long as the brakes release and activate as they should there is no problem, raise the rear wheel off the ground, spin the wheel, if it spins freely no problem, apply the brake it should grab okay, release the brake and if it spins freely with no drag it is okay. __________________ Smokey Capt(retd) Canadian Forces National President CVFR (Canadian Veteran Freedom Riders) 2010 VN1700 Voyager, ABS www.cvfr.ca VBA #02220
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12-28-2014, 02:55 PM	#15
paul Sr. Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: magnolia, tx Posts: 1,500	Nothing new to add, sorry. But just wanted to confirm, the warm rotor thing seems to be somewhat normal. It worried the bejeebers out of me too, till I figured it out. __________________ The beatings will stop when morale improves.
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