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10-08-2018, 02:22 PM | #16 |
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Location: Lake Travis, Texas
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This is pure speculation on my part.
You have two springs working in opposite directions. The larger round spring goes in first - then the bearing - tighten bearing beneath Lock Clutch Bolt. Then place bearing retainer in. leaving out the rest of the steps. My theory is that there is slight movement going in two directions creating a pump with the bearing retainer - which causes oil to enter to recirculate the oil from that area and or to and or from the tensioner rod once the cap is installed. So once on the bike motor running the tensioner rod is being moved back and forth up against the cam chain rail. Oil should be entering in several directions otherwise why place the O-Ring before Cap is installed along with the Clutch Bolt Washer to keep oil from leaking. Login or Register to Remove Ads
Last edited by rolfe; 10-08-2018 at 02:25 PM.
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10-08-2018, 09:34 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
the bearing moves up and down not round and round hmmm
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10-10-2018, 04:58 PM | #18 |
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Location: The Newforest, England
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Despite all that i have read,and advice taken,in good faith,The camchain extenders dont last very long at all.I fitted mine at about 30-35 thousand miles.Here they are at 68,000 miles.They are fully extended.I am faced with 2 options.Rebuild the motor,or get some longer extensions made.I am inclined to to do the latter.$25 a set.It will cost £535 to fix it properly.
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Last edited by mick56; 10-10-2018 at 05:04 PM.
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10-10-2018, 06:15 PM | #19 |
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Location: Ontario
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Where did you get extenders from ? Were they made in the U.K ?
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10-10-2018, 09:32 PM | #20 |
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Location: The Newforest, England
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Chuck Norris.And nothing wrong with them either.It makes no difference where they were made,or what out of.They dont wear on anything.All they do is push on the camchain slipper,which is made of plastic.The chains just stretched way beyond their reach.I am going to have some longer reach ones made up.
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Last edited by mick56; 10-10-2018 at 09:52 PM.
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10-11-2018, 08:44 AM | #21 |
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Presumably the slipper is fixed at both ends so there will be a point where the slipper will no longer move towards the chain no matter what the length the extender becomes ?
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10-11-2018, 09:02 AM | #22 |
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Not sure mate.Maybe someone who knows could chime in ? I am really not looking forward to pulling the engine out.
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10-11-2018, 12:00 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
Look at the diagram. You could put as long an extender on as you want to. The big issue is extenders going on too early. All it does is push against the chain guide, tightening the chain. I have a couple of new chains, if I can remember, I'll compare one of them to a used one this weekend. Ford, and many others, have a similar issue. The 4.0 and the 4.6each use a similar set-up. On them the composite guide wears through allowing the tensioner to contact the chain, putting metal debris into the oil.
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10-11-2018, 12:15 PM | #24 |
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Thanks for that mate.I reckon i will try some longer ones,and see how it goes. If i have to fit new chains,can it be done by just looping them under the bottom sprocket.Could i get away with just fitting new sprockets on the cams ? I really dont want to have to replace the bottom end ones.
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10-11-2018, 11:56 PM | #25 |
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The only similarity here is that the chains in the vulcan and Ford 4.6 use plastic tensioners. In the ford the tensioner contacts a Looong run up to the cams on each side. Simply "stretching" the chain a bit more is not a long term answer. The CHAIN is worn, unless a tensioner or guide has broken. You can't fix chain slop by stretching it tighter. The chain will only wear faster. A chain failure will be catastrophic at this point. Either way the engine will have to come out in short order for repair or replacement.
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10-13-2018, 01:12 PM | #26 |
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Remember it has a oil filter and a oil screen!
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10-13-2018, 01:47 PM | #27 |
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I changed to oil about a month ago.No debris in the oil screen.Although i do wonder if the plastic tensioner has been worn out.Thank you for your input though mate.
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