Access to front cam chain tensioner?

[jtascone]

I'm sorry if I wasted peoples time. I did do a search and couldn't find any step by step for accessing the front adjuster. In doing so, I also read a thread about a guy that did his without it at TDC with tragic results. Lots of threads and posts explaining how to remove the tensioner and install the extender, which is why that was not part of my worry or question. I could find nothing as to which side to access the front one or what all needed to be removed, except that its a pain in the ass and easier if you have a BAK installed. Once again I'm sorry if my thread offended anyone. I'm just gonna start digging and taking stuff off to access it and figure it out as I go. Thanks to those who offered their experience/insight.

[ldhthept]

Since you’ve done the back one, I can assume you know what it looks like. How then do you need to ask what side the front one is on? Do you see anything on the front cylinder at about the same spot as the rear, on the right side that looks like that? Take L dog bowl and assembly off of bike and you will see the tensioner. Looks just like the back one.

[redjay]

As you sit on the bike the tensioner for the front cylinder is on the lower left.

[DragonLady58]

What He said! i've always done the TDC or at least rotate the cams so its sitting on the base circle....
Theres enough spring pressure, especially if you pull the plugs while doing this, that it can rotate the cams slightly, possibly even the crank some....
If you do EXACTLY how Gadgets site explains, any the others here like MAS, Recumbantbob, redjay, chuck and others, there should be no problems....

[tomm]

Sorry for posting this so late in the game. Just reading this thread.

I’m the unlucky one that had the timing chain slip while doing the front tensioner. Below is a write-up from those very unhappy days on how to set a jug to TDC on the compression stroke. It was written up by a good friend (for anyone who remembers Mac) who helped me put things right again. If you want all the details, search for threads by me . . . Somewhere around page 18 I believe.

**************************

“Pull the left side engine cover, and the floor board.

Buy a 1/2" Fender Washer and get someone to grind a screw driver cut to remove the window plug on the inner side cover, that shows the F mark and the R mark.

Remove that plug and the one in the center too.

Pull the spark plugs on the left side only.

Be sure the key switch is not ON!

With a helper if need be turn the engine by hand with a 17mm socket COUNTER CLOCK WISE, with a finger in #1 plug hole, to 'feel' compression building under yer finger. As that hyappens and the F mark shows in the window it's safe to pull the tensioner.

Do just that tensioner / extender work.

Once that is done, and you are ready to do cly #2 turn the engine CCW again, this time feeling #2 for compression.

Note: you will see the F mark and the R mark appear everyother time, but that time there won't be compression
. When there has been no compression and the F or R mark show in the window, IT IS NOT SAFE to pull the tensioners!”

[redjay]

Have you heard from Mac lately, how is he doing ?

[tomm]

Not recently. Last was we got a nice note from Gwyn, but that was several years ago now. I know TC had been keeping in touch with them. They are two really good folks.

[redjay]

Macmac was last on the forum on 06-01-2018