smart switch for driving lights

[cnc]

I have a smart switch for controlling my aux driving lights that for the most part works great.
However I blew a fuse after 800 km of driving but have not blown another since (1200km later).

The switch is advertised as being a switch and a relay, but given the way it is wired it does not seem in my mind to work like a conventional relay ( one power source used to trigger a switch controlling a second power source ).

See the following for smart switch wiring info as well as a conventional relay. http://www.valueaccessories.net/Ligh...r%20Wiring.htm

You comments would be appreciated
CNC

[oldbikers]

I don't know about the smart switch but if you are worried I would put a relay in to power the smart switch then you know you are covered.

[cnc]

Oldbikers,
Thanks for the reply. You have a good idea there. I am a little concerned, as the power for the smart switch is coming off the run/ brake light circuit.
The dealer wired it this way. The lights and switch were part of a package deal when I bought the bike.
I certainly don't want to be driving around wondering if my back lights are still working, especially if I add extra lighting in the rear like I plan on doing soon.

P.S Nice bike, I like the color.

CNC

[strobe]

I had the smart switch on my bike for a while, hated it actually. I went to the conventional relay method. Likely could have dealt with the issues but just felts that it was much better to have the relay. The wiring instructions allowed the lights to stay on even after the bike was off (killed the battery once that way). That was fixable, but I also did not like the trigger being the hi/low switch.

[cnc]

The switch part I don't mind and my lights go out when I shut off the the bike as the power is from the running light circuit. I guess I have three choices to get piece of mind. Change to a conventional switch / relay as you have strobe, try using a relay to power the smart switch as oldbikers suggests or find another circuit that is live only with the ignition on.

CNC

[strobe]

I have the relay, with a switch in the relay activation power line. The relay is activated with the headlight so they are only on when the headlight is on, or I can completely turn them off. Works great, but I do know that some would like the smart switch, just was not for me.

[Yellow Jacket]

If you like the way the smart switch works then go ahead and keep it.

But, you don't want to be running your driving lights off the run/brake circuit. That is drawing too much current for that circuit.

I would suggest installing a relay connected directly to the battery with a 15 amp inline fuse and have that power the smart switch. You can use the running light or tail light circuit as the trigger for this relay.

This will give the driving lights their own properly sized circuit for power and will not put excessive load on the run/brake/tail circuit.

[samkjr]

Sounds exaclty like what I am going through tight now. Take a look in the 1600 garage section at my thread for "Electrical lighting problem"

[cnc]

I will probably pick up a relay and install it tomorrow as most of you suggest, thanks.
Samkjr, Yes it seems to be the same problem, too much load for the circuit.
What has got me ticked is the claim that the smart switch is supposed to be a relay and switch in one, but that does not seem possible the way it is wired. Perhaps one of you knows for sure, but I'm thinking there probably is one or more relays in the smart switch box but only to control the function of the high/low beam switch.
the first paragraph below is the description that seems to me to be very misleading.

A Smart Switch, part number 05-777
(Custom World) is an alternative and takes the place of a standard relay and switch.
This is a sealed latching relay unit that can be installed anywhere, or in your headlight shell.

Custom World Smart Switch Electrical Connections

Motorcycle
Smart Switch

Hi beam headlight wire orange wire
Light Bar Spot lamps
white wire

12 Volts (Accessory power when key is turned on) yellow wire
Ground black wire


How the Smart Switch works:
Headlight
Spot lamp

click to hi beam on OEM switch
=
Hi Beam On
ON

click to lo beam on OEM switch
=
Lo Beam On
On

click to hi beam on OEM switch
=
Hi Beam On
Off

click to lo beam on OEM switch
=
Lo Beam On
Off

CNC :)

[strobe]

The issue for you is the "12 Volts (Accessory power when key is turned on) yellow wire". This wire needs to be on a circuit that is not overloaded. With two 35W driving lamps you will be drawing around 9.5 amps I believe, you likely blew a 10 amp fuse, so really you are lucky you only lost 1 fuse so far. That is why mine worked the way it did, I refused to wire it to an already loaded circuit.

It If really does act like a relay, but in order for it to work properly it needs a circuit on it's own. A relay connected to the battery for the source power activated off the accessory (or headlight) will defintely solve this. I would make sure to fuse the lead coming into the new relay though.

[cnc]

Just a quick update, I installed a relay and fused line to power up the smart switch today and all works well.
I went to an electronics warehouse we have around here and picked up a spdt relay for $2.99 and a matching female socket with foot long wires for another $1.25. talk about your cheap fix.

Thanks everyone for your input.

CNC