Best way to stick aluminum to fiberglass?

[Monkeyman]

I'm planning on covering a few parts of the NomadGlide fairing with some (very thin) aluminum trim. I'll cut this out and polish it myself. What's the best way to affix it to the fiberglass fairing? It needs to be glued (?) down all the way to each edge so it doesn't pull up. I have no intention of using screws or rivets. (I have rivets holding the glovebox doors on that I'd like to get rid of. Can't see adding more.) I've used silicone before and was thinking about using that as it can be removed if needed.

[cactusjack]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

I'm planning on covering a few parts of the NomadGlide fairing with some (very thin) aluminum trim. I'll cut this out and polish it myself. What's the best way to affix it to the fiberglass fairing? It needs to be glued (?) down all the way to each edge so it doesn't pull up. I have no intention of using screws or rivets. (I have rivets holding the glovebox doors on that I'd like to get rid of. Can't see adding more.) I've used silicone before and was thinking about using that as it can be removed if needed.

Silicone? You might as well just use duct tape.

I guess it depends where and how the aluminum is going to be used. Maybe contact cement?

[Monkeyman]

There will be pieces surrounding both speakers (with the inner edges under the lip of the speakers to cover the original speaker mounting holes), covering the area around the stereo (mostly to cover the gap made by my sanding booboo), another piece on either side on the main fairing (around the gauges...not sure if they'll be under the lip of the gauges or not) and (if I like the look) covering the tops of the glove boxes. The aluminum won't be structural at all, just trim. I don't know what gauge it is but probably thin enough to bend by hand (which I won't). I forget what the tag said at the store.

[dmyers]

the best way is 3m two sided tape (this is by far the best way)
after that use trim adhesive get it at any auto paint store
When doing something like that take the aluminum and fold the edges over using a hammer laying the part on something hard like a vice. (Try it with a piece of scrap. Its vary easy to do)
after shaping them the way you want sand the edges down smooth and polish.
Its a little more work but it will look way better. It will give it a more solid substantial look than if you just glue on flat strips. plus it will give room for the tape behind the part and allow it to come flush with the mounting surface. A flat piece stuck on will look cheap. you can do this with any shape. Round, square it doesn't matter

[jlreeves]

if this needs to be watertight, use butyl tape. available at RV shops

[Rasta]

Originally Posted by dmyers

the best way is 3m two sided tape (this is by far the best way)
after that use trim adhesive get it at any auto paint store
When doing something like that take the aluminum and fold the edges over using a hammer laying the part on something hard like a vice. (Try it with a piece of scrap. Its vary easy to do)
after shaping them the way you want sand the edges down smooth and polish.
Its a little more work but it will look way better. It will give it a more solid substantial look than if you just glue on flat strips. plus it will give room for the tape behind the part and allow it to come flush with the mounting surface. A flat piece stuck on will look cheap. you can do this with any shape. Round, square it doesn't matter

That was my thought!!

[Monkeyman]

3M tape. Hmmm...for some reason, I never thought of that. Duh, to me. What would happen to the fiberglass if I ever tried to remove it? I can remove emblems stuck to metal all day long without damaging the metal but fiberglass?

[Monkeyman]

Originally Posted by dmyers

When doing something like that take the aluminum and fold the edges over using a hammer laying the part on something hard like a vice. (Try it with a piece of scrap. Its vary easy to do)
after shaping them the way you want sand the edges down smooth and polish.
Its a little more work but it will look way better. It will give it a more solid substantial look than if you just glue on flat strips. plus it will give room for the tape behind the part and allow it to come flush with the mounting surface. A flat piece stuck on will look cheap. you can do this with any shape. Round, square it doesn't matter

Bending the edges over makes good sense. It'll be worth the extra work although I don't have a vice. I do however have some nice pliers. What else would work without a vice? I'm not real clear about shaping them and sanding down the edges. Can you elaborate?

[cnc]

I agree with the two way tape, from an auto supply store, not from say home depot. Big difference in quality. Pliers will mess up the finish on the aluminum. Cover the good side in masking tape before working on the aluminum.

[ringadingh]

Originally Posted by Monkeyman

Bending the edges over makes good sense. It'll be worth the extra work although I don't have a vice. I do however have some nice pliers. What else would work without a vice? I'm not real clear about shaping them and sanding down the edges. Can you elaborate?

Clamping two blocks of wood works on smaller peices, pliers will just make a mess.
Pick up a vice at Harbour Freight, they are cheap there, I use mine every day,it makes a great cigar rest in the shop.

[ringadingh]

The 3M automotive body molding tape is the best for an invisible connection. Pop rivets also work very well, but you said you dont want to use them. If you need access to a panel, you can use WellNuts, which you already say you have.

[Monkeyman]

Originally Posted by cnc

Cover the good side in masking tape before working on the aluminum.

Not that I doubt you a bit but why? What's the purpose?

Originally Posted by ringadingh

Clamping two blocks of wood works on smaller peices, pliers will just make a mess.
Pick up a vice at Harbour Freight, they are cheap there, I use mine every day,it makes a great cigar rest in the shop.

None of the pieces will have an edge longer than about a foot. Most will be less than 4" or so. I have no problem buying a vise but I have no place to mount it.

Originally Posted by ringadingh

If you need access to a panel, you can use WellNuts, which you already say you have.

I have wellnuts for the windshield but I don't know how those would work for these panels. I want a smooth look which is why I don't want to use rivets.

[ringadingh]

The masking tape helps keep the piece from getting scratched, as aluminium marks easily.
Sounds like you need a workbench as well, a used solid door makes a great bench.
Wellnuts work great but you would see a screw head, if thats not what you want, the tape is the way to go.

[Monkeyman]

Originally Posted by ringadingh

The masking tape helps keep the piece from getting scratched, as aluminium marks easily.

That's all I could come up with but it seemed too easy.

Originally Posted by ringadingh

Sounds like you need a workbench as well, a used solid door makes a great bench.

I have a large built in closet in the garage (about 10' wide by about 2' deep) that I've considered converting into a makeshift workstation. I've been looking for solid door but can't seem to find a used one. I think, with a few 2x4s and a door, I could be in business.

[dmyers]

If you are going to buff the metal anyway don't worry about marring it.
Aluminum is soft so you can use almost anything to fold the edge down.
It helps to have several different surfaces to fold the metal over round and square and such. after you have it shaped the way you want sand the face smooth and buff it out.
the smoother you get the surface the easyer it will be to buff