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04-13-2020, 09:49 PM | #1 |
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Posts: 282
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Access to front cam chain tensioner?
Hi all. Hope everyone is safe and staying healthy in the midst of this pandemic. I installed the rear extender a year ago, and it's time I stop putting it off and do the front extender. But how? What all has to be removed to do the front extender? I have stock air filter and want to keep it that way. Do I remove things to give myself access to the tensioner from the air filter side or the throttle body side? I have learned a lot about this bike, but have never removed either of these items and don't wanna get into something that is over my head. Thanks for any info you can offer.
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04-13-2020, 10:47 PM | #2 |
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Well, do a search, we've thrash this subject plenty of times....
Gadgets site covers it also....
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04-14-2020, 06:27 AM | #3 |
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I looked on Gadgets page. It says he won't get into accessing the front one except to say if you still have the original air box, there is VERY little room to access it. Doesn't give any kind of step by step as to how and what to remove to get to it?
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04-14-2020, 07:39 AM | #4 |
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My only other concern is, somewhere on here I read that it's important to make sure timing is at top dead center before removing the tensioner or there is a risk of the chain slipping and upsetting the timing. Others say as long as bike isn't moved or disturbed at all while the tensioner is out, everything will be fine. Which is true? And how do I know where in the power stroke everything is if I need to make sure it's in a certain position?
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04-14-2020, 09:55 AM | #5 |
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On a 1600 the front tensioner can be removed without removal of the crossover tube.
Disconnect the tube at both ends and you will be able to lift it high enough to access the bolts. A ball ended Allen key will get you on the tensioner attachment bolts. I never positioned the engine at TDC but why risk not doing that ? I wasn't aware it could be an issue when I did my bike which was around 2009. Login or Register to Remove Ads |
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04-14-2020, 10:39 AM | #6 |
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My bike is a 1500 Nomad. Can I detach the crossover tube same as the 1600? And how do I ensure my engine is at TDC?
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04-14-2020, 04:33 PM | #7 |
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Maybe someone with a 1500 will answer your question about TDC.
In the meantime try disconnecting the crossover tube at both ends and see if it will lift high enough to get at the tensioner bolts. I know some guys cut out the tube but I am not sure if that is essential. It is not essential on the 1600. If you cut out the tube I think you have to add a blanking plate to the right side dogbowl, or take the dogbowl completely off and add an aftermarket intake.
Last edited by redjay; 04-14-2020 at 04:36 PM.
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04-15-2020, 12:02 PM | #8 |
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Bump for TDC information.
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04-15-2020, 04:58 PM | #9 |
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Tdc
Just pull a Spark Plug put your Finger over hole -- crank the Engine manually and stop at top of Compression Stroke and you will be close enough
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04-15-2020, 05:37 PM | #10 |
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I think the OP is asking how do you determine the compression stroke ?
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04-15-2020, 06:45 PM | #11 |
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04-16-2020, 02:32 AM | #12 |
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It's been discussed many, many times... OP should have enough posts under his belt / experience in here to know how to search the forum without the rest of us getting involved? Here's one done simply using a sentence from the post recumbentbob gave us above.
Sorry... did that sound grumpy? I blame lockdown cabin-fever & end of southern hemisphere riding season.
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04-16-2020, 08:10 AM | #13 |
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I did mine about 3 years ago with the help of VulcanE. No need to find TDC just don't move the bike while it's out. We removed the crossover tube at the same time hardest part for sure. All in with a break for coffee about 3 hours.
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04-16-2020, 08:41 AM | #14 |
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I didn’t think it was that bad but it’s been a few years. My bike already had coasters, not sure if that makes a difference. I did not remove the crossover.
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Tighten it till it strips and back it off a quarter turn. |
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04-16-2020, 11:35 PM | #15 |
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On my 1500, I took a Dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut the tube half into from the inside leaving the right half still attached to the right bowl. Did the extender. We had heat shrink at work that has high heat glue inside of it. Slid it over the piece of cross over tube from the right bowl and heated it slightly then add the left side tube and heated it from the inside and outside. Solid as before.
As with the TDC, it's 50/50. If a valve spring is fully compressed and the cam lobe is dead center on the tappet, you may be ok...…. But if it's at 3/4 lobe, a lot of presser on the chain.
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