Oil Change - Start to Finish

[dabull]

alrighty then...

so, i have 13k on the bike (05-1600) and have decided to do my first oil change since buying the bike (even though the oil looks good.

so, i am looking for help to get this done as i am a wanna-be mechanic that enjoys watching others do the job cuz i am ascairt to do it myself...

so, need to know the process/hints to getter done right...

so, what oil? i saw something where someone recommended purple something synth oil...like the idea...

what oil filter...

what plugs? might as well right?

Tranny oil? How to??

In a certain order?

Can i do this while the bike is on it's kick stand??

are there 2-drain plugs?

any other things/??

ok...so you get the idea....help??!!

Thanks!

Derry

[schoeney]

Derry,

This link will lead you to all your answers.

http://www.gadgetjq.com/gadgetsfixit...tm#maintenance

[ringadingh]

Changing oil is pretty simple.
Go to walmart and get a Super tech filter ST7317
get oil 10w40 or whatever your personal choice. I like Rotella T 15W40
The drain to use is the plug on the side of the crankcase underneath the engine, not the plug right on the bottom.
Remember the order of the spring, filter and stuff. Its best to do this with warm oil.
Unscrew the oil filter, its on the right rear corner of the engine underneath. Put on the new filter hand tight only, dont overtighten by any means, or youll never get it off.
Install the drain plug and fill with new oil it will hold 3.3 litres, around 3.5 quarts I think.
Start the engine and check for leaks.

[waterman]

Originally Posted by Ringadingh

Changing oil is pretty simple.
Go to walmart and get a Super tech filter ST7317
get oil 10w40 or whatever your personal choice. I like Rotella T 15W40
The drain to use is the plug on the side of the crankcase underneath the engine, not the plug right on the bottom.
Remember the order of the spring, filter and stuff. Its best to do this with warm oil.
Unscrew the oil filter, its on the right rear corner of the engine underneath. Put on the new filter hand tight only, dont overtighten by any means, or youll never get it off.
Install the drain plug and fill with new oil it will hold 3.3 litres, around 3.5 quarts I think.
Start the engine and check for leaks.

Big thing on the oil, don't get oil that is Energy Conserving. Your clutch will not like it.

[ringadingh]

Good point waterman, I forgot to mention that.

[mercianbike]

Originally Posted by DaBull

Can i do this while the bike is on it's kick stand??

Yes. I find it's easier, however, to elevate the left side of the bike just a little by putting a brick or something of equivalent thickness under the kickstand. You have to lay on the ground to do it, but you'll be able to pull the drain plug and change the filter from the kickstand side of the bike with no problem. Be sure your drain pan will hold a little over three quarts of oil.

[Yellow Jacket]

The transmission and the engine use the same oil. Nothing separate to do to change tranny oil.

[ndbigfish]

Royal Purple or Mobil V-Twin are good synthetic oils. I prefer 10w-40 in the cool part of the year and 20w-50 for the summer heat. Your going to need a high flash point solvent to clean the oil screen with; i.e. brake parts cleaner works good. Lots of folks use the WM Supertech filter; I personally prefer the Purolator brand. Go easy when tightening the oil screen plug upon re-installation. After lots of changes without a jack it is nice to get the bike up in the air with a jack/adapter combination of some kind.

[macmac]

You need a short 17mm wrench with a 'box end'. Maybe you need a oil filter strap wrench to loosen the filter.

You need a 1/2 inch fender washer for the rear end gear box filler, as well as the engine oil filler plugs.

You need a 12mm wrench (box end) to drain the rear end.

Of course you need a drain pan, rags, oils, and storage for waste oil.

Warm up the engine, then shut off. Set a 2x4 under the side stand.

Locate on the left side as seated the drain that eixts the side, and don't even bother with the other drain plug. The side one had a screen to clean, and is lower than the main drain..

Pay attention to the screen sleeve as the closed end exits first and it can be installed backwards, but DON'T!

The side drain plug had 4 large slotted openings too, so you can leave it installed a while and drain almost all the oil in a controlled way. (less spills)

When you tighten it and it stops you STOP too. At best re-check is stopped, but if you go tighter the threads will strip easy. The threads are made to fail easy so the engine case threads would be less damaged. Do not damage tghese threads!

I need and use no tools to change my filters ever.. I give a oil new rubber seal 1/2 turn by hand only which seems loose, but it will tighten once heated and almost be hard to get off by hand.

If you have stock pipes drop the left muffler by un-bolting it, at the saddle bag mounting brackets and swing the muffler down.

If you have V&H Baggers, drop rear shock psi to 0 and get anyone about 150 pounds or more to sit on the pillion seat and pull the 12 mm drain bo9lf from the gear case drain hole.

DO NOT stand the bike up straight, to get just a bit more oil in the rear gear case. The Book is WRONG and you want the bike on the side stand and no over filling to take place with apx 6 oz of gear oil. Not 6.2 oz..

The Book is wrong to say that this measelly amoint 6.2 oz of oil can last 24,000 miles.

Change it at each engine oil change. and if not atleast check it, and do it every other.

If you fail to check it you will wish you didn't.

With the engine oil filled straighten up the bike and look in the window. See the level is BETWEEN the H and L cold.... Not at H cold.

Start the engine and run it a few moments, then shut the engine off, and check the oil level again with the bike up straight.

If the filter took oil which it will, fill to the middle of the window only!

If you over fill the engine and ior the rear gear case you will drown the seals and they will LEAK!

[Kawhead]

After you take 'er for a test run, and when the job is finished have your wife brig you a cold Miller Light.

[dabull]

thx gang...appreciate the help!!

[Scoot]

Before I change the oil I pour 1 or 2 oz. of seafoam in the oil, then ride it around the block a couple times to warm up the oil then let it drain.

[dabull]

Originally Posted by Scoot

Before I change the oil I pour 1 or 2 oz. of seafoam in the oil, then ride it around the block a couple times to warm up the oil then let it drain.

scoot...for the non-seafoam edukated (me), what will that do?

[ringadingh]

The Seafoam is a cleaning product, it will remove varnish and carbon deposits from the motor. I usually add about 4 oz to my oil once a year, about a week before I actually do the oil change. This gives the Seafoam a chance to loosen up the dirt and it will flush out with the old oil.
I also add about the same amount to the fuel about once a month to help keep the injection system clean, as well as removing carbon from the pistons and valves. On my bike I can feel the difference when it is in the tank, It seems to run better all around.

[vidornomad]

Ah yes, SeaFoam good stuff.